Amana Ice Maker Not Working [How To Fix]

Is your Amana ice maker not working? If so, don’t worry. In this detailed guide, we’ll discuss the causes of this issue and provide detailed steps on deal with them…

Amana Ice Maker Not Working — Solutions

The following are causes of your Amana refrigerator ice maker not working…

Amana Ice Maker Not Working [Reason #1: Water Supply Issue]

If your Amana ice maker is not working, the most common cause is an issue with the water supply. Ensure that the water faucet is opened, then test the ice maker again.

If the ice maker still doesn’t work, the next thing to do is test/replace the water inlet valve. The steps below show you how to do this…

Step 1. In order to prevent electrocution and leakage, make sure to disconnect appliance from the power outlet and shut the water faucet.

Step 2. Go to the back of the appliance, then loosen the nut holding the water supply line to the inlet valve using a 5/16 inch wrench. Detach the water line from the valve (keep a towel nearby in case water spills).

Step 3. Loosen the screws holding the lower rear access panel to the cabinet using a 1/4 inch nut-driver (remember to take out the screws holding the water line retainers).

Step 4. Slide the power cord’s retainer out of the rear panel. Pull the panel out of place, then unplug the wire connector from the water inlet valve.

Step 5. Using a 3/8 inch wrench, release the locking clip holding the inner water supply line to the valve. Pull the line off the valve.

Step 6. Loosen the screw holding the water inlet valve to the rear panel using a 1/4 inch socket wrench. Carefully pull the valve assembly off.

Step 7. Get a digital multimeter, then turn the dial to the lowest setting for ohms of resistance.

Step 8. Place a multimeter probe on each terminal of the water inlet valve. For a working valve assembly, you should get a reading between 500 and 1400 ohms. If the multimeter’s readings are much lower or higher than the numbers stated above, the valve is damaged and needs to be replaced.

Step 9. Once you’ve purchased your new water inlet valve, prepare it for installation by taking it out of its packaging.

Step 10. Mount the valve assembly on the lower rear access panel, then secure it by tightening the screw.

Step 11. Push the inner water supply line into the appropriate port on the new water inlet valve.

Step 12. Realign the rear panel, then plug the wire connector into the terminal of the valve.

See also  Maytag Refrigerator Light [Problems, Solutions & Guides]

Step 13. Snap the power cord retainer into the slot on the lower rear panel. Mount the panel on the refrigerator, then secure it by applying the 1/4 inch bolts (ensure that you secure the water line retainers).

Step 14. Attach the water supply line to the new valve, then secure the connection by tightening the 5/16 inch nut.

Step 15. Turn the water faucet back on, then plug your appliance into the power outlet to see if the ice maker works properly.

Amana Ice Maker Not Working [Reason #2: Damaged Condenser/Evaporator Fan Motor]

The evaporator and condenser are crucial components in the refrigeration process. The evaporator changes liquid refrigerant to vapor, while the condenser takes out the heat from refrigerant vapor gas. If if the fan motor in one of these parts fails, your ice maker won’t function normally.

For detailed steps on how to test and replace the evaporator/condenser fan motor in your Amana refrigerator, read this article: Amana Refrigerator Fan Not Working [How To Fix].

Amana Ice Maker Not Working [Reason #3: Frozen Evaporator Coils]

If the evaporator coils in your refrigerator get frozen, the appliance won’t be able to cool properly. This issue is often caused by a faulty defrost heater. Follow the steps below to test/replace this part…

Step 1. Avoid any chances of electrocution by unplugging your refrigerator from the power outlet before starting this repair.

Step 2. Open the freezer compartment, then pull the bin out. Release the locking tabs holding the two drawer rails to the cabinet.

Step 3. Carefully slide the freezer drawer assembly out of the appliance, then set it aside.

Step 4. With a 1/4 inch nut-driver, take out the screws at the left and right sides of the cabinet holding the rack support rails.

Step 5. Pull the rack out of the freezer compartment, then release the gear support brackets at the left and right of the cabinet using a flat-blade screwdriver.

Step 6. Carefully lift the rails up, then pull the rack out of the freezer compartment.

Step 7. Using a 1/4 inch nut-driver, loosen the nuts in the freezer compartment securing the interior rear access panel.

Step 8. Carefully pry the sensor cover off the interior rear panel using a flat-blade screwdriver.

Step 9. Pull the sensor off the cover, then use a flat-blade screwdriver to release the retaining tabs securing the fan cover to the interior rear panel.

Step 10. Pull the fan cover out of the freezer compartment, then pull the interior rear panel out.

Step 11. Use your nut-driver to take out the nuts holding the evaporator assembly to the back of the cabinet.

Step 12. Carefully pull the evaporator assembly away from the back of the freezer compartment.

Step 13. Unplug the defrost heater wire harnesses from the evaporator assembly (ensure that you take note of where each plug goes).

See also  Westinghouse Fridge Not Cooling [Quick Fix]

Step 14. Release the defrost heater wire retaining clips from the support bracket.

Step 15. Pull the grommets and wires off the evaporator bracket, then use needle-nosed pliers to unhook the two retaining wires at the bottom of the evaporator assembly.

Step 16. Carefully pull the defrost heater out from behind the evaporator assembly and out of the freezer compartment.

Step 17. Get a digital multimeter, then turn the dial to the lowest the setting for ohms of resistance.

Step 18. Place one of the meter’s probes on each of the defrost heater’s terminals. For a working heater, you should get a reading between 0 and 46 ohms. If the reading is significantly higher, the part is damaged and needs to be replaced.

Step 19. Once you’ve concluded that the defrost heater is damaged, it’s time to prepare the new one for installation by taking it out of its packaging.

Step 20. Carefully push the new defrost heater into place on the evaporator assembly. Hook the retaining wires onto the new defrost heater.

Step 21. Pass the wires of the defrost heater through the opening on the evaporator’s bracket.

Step 22. Push the grommets into the slots, then snap the wire retainers into place.

Step 23. Plug each wire connector into its appropriate terminal on the new defrost heater.

Step 24. Push the evaporator assembly back into place, then secure it by applying the screws on the support bracket.

Step 25. Push the interior rear panel back into the freezer compartment. Pass the sensor wire through the opening on the rear panel.

Step 26. Mount the rear panel on the inner wall of the cabinet, then secure it by tightening the 1/4 inch screws.

Step 27. Snap the evaporator fan cover into place on the rear panel. Slide the sensor through the opening on the cover, then snap the sensor cover onto the rear panel.

Step 28. Carefully align the freezer’s rack on the support rails. Push the rack support rails down, then push the gear support brackets into place.

Step 29. Slide the rack into the freezer compartment, then tighten the screws at the sides to secure the rails.

Step 30. Carefully lift the drawer assembly, then align the slides with the rails at the sides of the cabinet. Slide the drawer into place.

Step 31. Open the freezer drawer, then place the bin back in. Plug your appliance into the power outlet to see if the problem has been fixed.

[amalinkspro type=”showcase” asin=”B08W1THSM8″ apilink=”https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08W1THSM8?tag=refrigeratorsreviewed-20&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1″ new-window=”true” addtocart=”false” nofollow=”true” sc-id=”4″ img-sizes=”500:500″ imgs=”https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41a9teBNmiL._SL500_.jpg” link-imgs=”false” specs=”Digital Multimeter measures up to 600V AC/DC voltage, 10A DC current and 2 ohm resistance~~~Meter also test batteries, diodes, and continuity~~~Voltage Tester NCVT-3P has dual-range capabilities to detect from 12 to 1000 V AC or 70 to 1000V AC for a broad variety of low-voltage or standard voltage applications~~~Bright flashlight illuminates work area and may be used independent of NCVT-3P voltage detection function~~~ET45 tests AC voltages from 28V to 240V AC at four useful levels aligned with commonly used residential voltages, and DC voltages from 32V to 330V at four common levels~~~Built-in test lead holder on back of ET45 holds the leads in one of two positions: one so that they are spaced correctly to test tamper-resistant US-style outlets and the other for convenient storage of the test leads~~~RT210 detects the most common wiring problems in standard and GFCI receptacles including open ground, reverse polarity, open hot, open neutral and hot/ground rever” btn-color=”#ff9900″ btn-text=”Buy on Amazon” alignment=”alignnone” hide-prime=”0″ hide-image=”0″ hide-price=”0″ hide-button=”0″ width=”750″ banner=”” alt=”Digital Multimeter Electrical Test Kit, Non-Contact Voltage Tester, Receptacle Tester, Carrying Case and Batteries Klein Tools MM320KIT”]Digital Multimeter Electrical Test Kit, Non-Contact Voltage Tester, Receptacle Tester, Carrying Case and Batteries Klein Tools MM320KIT[/amalinkspro]

Amana Ice Maker Not Working [Reason #4: Damaged Ice Maker]

If all the methods above failed to fix the issue, the final thing to do is replace the ice maker. Follow the steps below to do this…

See also  How to Fix a Samsung Freezer Door Handle [Quick Guide]

Step 1. In order to prevent any chances of electrocution, make sure to disconnect your appliance from the power outlet before you start this repair.

Step 2. Open the door of your refrigerator, then pull the ice bucket out of the ice maker.

Step 3. Lift the ice access door up and out of place, then pry the ice maker cover off using a flat-blade screwdriver.

Step 4. Loosen the mounting bracket screws at the bottom of the ice maker using a 1/4 inch nut-driver.

Step 5. Loosen the top screws securing the mounting bracket, then carefully lift the ice maker assembly off the wall of the cabinet (take care in case the ice maker is filled with water).

Step 6. Carefully pry the thermal fuse on the ice maker out of the retaining clip, then unplug the wire connector from the ice maker (use a flat-blade screwdriver if needed).

Step 7. Pull the ice maker assembly out of the refrigerator, then set it aside. Prepare the new ice maker for installation by taking it out of its packaging.

Step 8. Using a small flat-blade screwdriver, remove the wire harness attached to the new ice maker.

Step 9. Pry the ice level arm off the old ice maker, then transfer it to the new one.

Step 10. Take the ice maker assembly into the refrigerator, then snap the wire connector into place. Push the thermal fuse into the retaining clip on the new ice maker

Step 11. Align the ice maker assembly on the wall of the cabinet, then secure it by tightening the screws with your 1/4 inch nut-driver.

Step 12. Snap the cover onto the new ice maker assembly, then close the access door.

Step 13. Push the ice bucket back into place underneath the ice maker, then close the door of your refrigerator.

Step 14. Plug your refrigerator back into the electrical outlet to see if the ice maker works properly now.

Note: If the steps above didn’t fix your refrigerator’s problem, we recommend contacting a professional repair service, as there may be a more serious issue with your appliance.