KitchenAid Refrigerator Not Working [Problems Solved]

Several faults can lead to the problem of a KitchenAid refrigerator not working. We explain possible solutions and how to prevent future occurrences in this article.

Table of Contents

KitchenAid Refrigerator Ice Maker Not Working – Fixed

Check the following if the ice maker in your KitchenAid refrigerator is not working:

1. Power Source

If your ice maker has a power switch, ensure it is on and the ejector blades turn. That shows you the ice maker is working. Other models may not have a dedicated power button or switch, and you will have to use the shut-off arm to turn it on or off.

Consult the user manual to determine the exact method of turning on the ice maker for your specific refrigerator model. There must also be a power supply to the ice maker, meaning it must connect to electric power, especially if it is a new installation.

2. Temperature Setting

The next step is to ensure the refrigerator is at the correct temperature. The ice maker works with the temperature in the refrigerator; it does not generate a separate cooling temperature to make ice. Therefore, if the freezer or refrigerator compartment is set at the wrong temperature, you may find the ice maker not working.

Typically, the freezer must be at 0 degrees Fahrenheit; it must not exceed 5 degrees Fahrenheit if you must take it higher than the recommended point. If you have a model with the ice maker in the refrigerator, ensure the temperature stays at 37 degrees Fahrenheit. This temperature does not only keep the ice maker working but also preserves stored food.

If you are unsure of the temperature, put a thermometer in the freezer or refrigerator between frozen or cold food containers and leave it there for 24 hours. The set temperature may not be the same as the actual temperature, and the thermometer should inform you of the correct temperature. If the temperature reading exceeds the displayed settings, the appliance is not cooling as it should, even though you set the correct temperature.

Several things can cause this, such as dirty condenser coils, a weak door gasket, and a faulty thermostat. It is crucial to troubleshoot further to find the cause of the temperature issue and fix it to get the ice maker working again and preserve food correctly.

3. Water Line

Ensure the water line is connected correctly. There may be some looseness at the connections, which may lead to leakages. If that does not apply, check the water line for kinks and twists, restricting water flow to the ice maker. Straighten the line and remove any kinks; twists and kinks can damage the water line. Leave some space behind the refrigerator to prevent future kinks on the water line.

Also, check the main water supply to ensure the saddle valve is open. A partially-closed valve may reduce the water pressure and affect how well the ice maker works. How you open the valve depends on the type, but most will require turning them to the left or counterclockwise to open. Then, water can freely flow through the water line to the ice maker.

4. Water Filter

The water filter ensures the water and ice from the refrigerator are clean and tasteless. In other words, the filter ensures you have clean water. That means it removes contaminants and impurities from the water. However, these contaminants clog the filter over time, preventing it from working as it should. That is why refrigerator manufacturers recommend replacing the filter every six months.

If you have used the filter in your refrigerator for longer than six months and regularly use the ice and water, replace the filter to get the ice maker working again. Dirt in a clogged filter blocks the path through which water flows to the ice maker and reduces the pressure or stops the water from reaching the ice maker.

Another way to determine whether or not you need a new water filter is to remove the filter and leave the refrigerator in bypass mode or install a bypass plug if you have one. Next, dispense water and note how well it flows. If you can fill a glass within ten seconds without the filter, you need a replacement water filter. Therefore, get a new filter compatible with your KitchenAid refrigerator and replace the old one.

The filter must be an Everydrop or KitchenAid brand. Follow the steps in the user manual to remove and replace the filter, depending on the location of the filter housing. After replacing it, flush the system by dispensing water from the water dispenser or the water line for a few minutes. This helps to clear the line of trapped air to prevent pressure buildup that can affect the water supply or cause the ice maker to produce hollow or small ice cubes.

5. Water Inlet Valve

The inlet valve is at the bottom back of the refrigerator and controls the water flow to the ice maker. Typically, it opens for about seven seconds, fills the ice mold in the ice maker, and shuts until there is a need for more water. Over time, it may become clogged with impurities from the water flowing through it.

This does not happen quickly, so you have several years of use from the inlet valve. But when it clogs, it may restrict the water to the ice maker. And if the valve does not open to supply water, the ice maker cannot work. The inlet valve is electrically controlled, so you may need professional help to determine whether or not it needs a replacement.

6. Water Pressure

A few factors cause the water pressure to drop or change, causing the ice maker not to work. One is a clogged water filter, as discussed above. Two is an issue with the main water supply; the water from the source may have insufficient pressure, leading to a slow supply and restricting the ice maker from working.

Hire a plumber to check this issue or report to the appropriate authorities if you find out the pressure from the main source is too low. Three is an in-house reverse osmosis water filtration system. This system can provide purified water, but it also sometimes affects the water pressure.

If that is the case, consider running a separate water line from the main water supply to the refrigerator and using a refrigerator water filter instead of relying on the in-house filtration system. It helps to improve the water pressure and lets you control it easily by replacing the filter when it is clogged with dirt.

However, if the ice maker does not work after trying or fixing all the above, your refrigerator and ice maker may require service. Contact the KitchenAid Service Center to make a report and request service. Alternatively, employ the services of a qualified appliance technician for further assistance.

KitchenAid Refrigerator Light Not Working – Solved

Do the following if you find that the light or lights in your KitchenAid refrigerator are not working:

1. Check the Light Bulb

The bulb should be the first part to check if the light in your refrigerator stops working. The filament may be burned out, but ensure the bulb is correctly screwed into the socket. Remove and put the bulb back, and activate the light switch.

If the bulb responds, the problem is solved. But if the bulb does not respond, replace it and try the light switch again. The light should work if everything else is in good working condition. Use the model and refrigerator type to purchase the light bulb, especially if the refrigerator uses LED lights.

2. Check the Light Socket

Another part to check is the light socket. If the bulb is not faulty or you replace it, but the light still does not work, check the socket. Sometimes, moisture and dirt enter the socket and reduce its capacity to function. While it is not common, it still happens, especially when you have used it for many years. To check it, get a multimeter and run a continuity test on the socket. If you find no continuity, the socket is no longer and needs a replacement.

3. Check the Door Switch

The door switch controls the light and dispenser functions in a refrigerator. When you close the door, the door switch activates, the dispenser begins to function, and the internal light goes off. Once you open the door, the refrigerator light comes on, and the dispenser functions deactivate to prevent accidental dispensing.

But if the switch is defective, it may affect how the light works. Test the switch with a multimeter to check for continuity. Replace the door switch if there is no continuity. Ensure you test it after replacing it, and the light begins functioning.

4. Check the Light Assembly

The entire light assembly may not work, so you may have to replace it. Contact KitchenAid to ask about individual replacement parts for the light assembly. Most manufacturers do not sell these individual parts, so it may be easier to replace the entire assembly.

5. Check the Control Board

If every part is working, but the light still is not working, check the light control board. Test it to see if it is getting enough voltage. If it is not getting enough voltage, there may be a disruption in the power supply. That will require fixing the connections, and it is best to get a technician to fix it. But if the board is getting enough voltage without powering the refrigerator light, replace the board.

KitchenAid Refrigerator Water Dispenser Not Working – What to Do

Several factors can stop the water dispenser on a KitchenAid refrigerator from working. So, check the following and make the necessary corrections to solve the problem:

1. Control Lock

Some KitchenAid refrigerator models have a Control Lock feature for disabling the dispenser functions. The lock is handy for times when you clean the refrigerator or if you have children and pets to prevent accidental dispensing. If the lock feature is active, the water dispenser cannot work.

The lock icon will be illuminated on the control panel if the lock is active. Press the Lock button and hold it for about three seconds or until the lock icon is no longer illuminated. Consult the refrigerator’s user manual for other methods of deactivating the lock for your specific model.

2. Water Supply

Ensure the main water valve is fully open for the dispenser to work. If it is only partially open, it will affect the water pressure, and there may not be enough to produce water from the dispenser. The supply valve should be under the sink or on the wall next to the refrigerator. Turn it to open it and check the force of the water. If there is low pressure, it may be from the main source.

That may require contacting the authorities for corrections or hiring a plumber to check the water from your end. And if your home has another filtration system, such as a reverse osmosis system, it may affect the refrigerator’s water supply. You may notice that the ice maker does not produce enough ice or makes small, hollow cubes. In such a case, have a separate water line from the refrigerator to the main source to improve the pressure.

3. Water Filter

The water filter is vital in how the refrigerator’s water supply works. The water dispenser should work if the filter is the correct type, properly installed, and not clogged. But the water supply becomes restricted if the filter is clogged with dirt due to age. The first step is to check the filter status light on the control panel if your refrigerator model has one. The light turns orange or red when the filter is due for replacement.

If that does not apply, remove the filter and leave the refrigerator on bypass mode or install a bypass plug if available. Dispense some water into a glass; if it fills within ten seconds, the water pressure is sufficient, and the filter needs a replacement. But the filter may not need a replacement if the water is still slow with a bypass plug.

Always use a KitchenAid or Everydrop water filter brand for your refrigerator. Also, dispense a few gallons of water from the system to flush it to remove air after replacing the filter. Otherwise, the water dispenser may work slowly or not at all. You can read the user manual to find specific instructions to clear the air from the water line and correctly replace the filter.

4. Water Line

Inspect the water line to check for kinks. Kinks on the water line reduce the water flow and stop the dispenser from working. Keep the refrigerator a few inches away from the wall or surface behind to create room for the water line.

Pushing the refrigerator too close to the wall affects the water line and causes it to kink. Kinking, in turn, lowers the water pressure and stops the dispenser and ice maker from working. Straighten the water line if kinked and check for possible damage; replace the water line if damaged.

5. In-door Water Line

The water line in the refrigerator door that feeds water directly to the dispenser may be frozen. This may happen if the refrigerator temperature is too low and runs continuously. You can access the water line from under the refrigerator; disconnect it and blow air into it. If the air does not pass through the water line, it is blocked with ice.

Thaw the line using a water line kit or turn off the refrigerator until the ice melts. Then, increase the freezer temperature, keeping it between 0 and 5 degrees Fahrenheit. Otherwise, the in-door water line will freeze again

6. Dispenser Lever

Ensure you fully engage the dispenser lever when trying to get water from the refrigerator. First, select the correct option on the control panel; select water and press the lever with the glass or use the button on the panel. Remove the glass when full if the dispenser works. There is also a possibility that the lever is broken, which will require a replacement. Contact KitchenAid or hire an independent technician for further assistance.

7. Water Inlet Valve

A defective water inlet valve cannot supply water to the dispenser; it opens to allow water to flow to the dispenser without an overflow. Also, the inlet valve cannot work if the water pressure is low. Check the water pressure to ensure it is up to 30psi for the inlet valve to work. If the pressure is enough, but the valve does not work, test it using a multimeter to check for continuity. Replace the inlet valve if there is no continuity.

8. Door Switch

The door switch deactivates the dispenser functions once you open the refrigerator door. If you find that the water dispenser is not working, it may be because the switch has failed. Open the refrigerator and press the switch; it may be on the side or top of the door frame inside the unit.

The switch is not defective if the lights respond and the dispenser works. However, if the lights do not respond, run a continuity test on the switch using a multimeter to check for continuity. Replace the switch if it does not register continuity on the multimeter.

9. Dispenser Switch

A water dispenser has multiple switches that send voltage to the dispenser to run when necessary. However, all the switches work as a team; if one fails, the dispenser does not work. Therefore, get a multimeter and test each switch to check continuity. Find the faulty ones and replace them.

10. Dispenser Control Board

Finally, check the dispenser control board, but do that only if other components are in good working condition. The control board is in charge of the dispenser’s functions and must work for the dispenser to produce water. If the control board fails, the dispenser cannot work. Test the relays on the board and check for arcing signs or burn marks at solder points. Replace the control board if there is any damage.

KitchenAid Refrigerator Water Dispenser Not Working After Replacing Filter

The most likely cause for the failure of the water dispenser after replacing the filter is using the wrong filter for the refrigerator. KitchenAid has specific water filter brands for its refrigerators, and alternatives may fail to work. You must use Everydrop or KitchenAid water filters for your refrigerator; contact the brand or check authorized sellers around you.

Close on the heels of using the wrong filter type is incorrect installation. It is crucial to purchase the filter that fits your refrigerator model; there are different ways of replacing the filters according to their installation. Therefore, follow the refrigerator’s user manual instructions to remove and replace the filter.

If the filter type and installation do not solve the problem, ensure sufficient water pressure. Also, check the seal around the connection point between the filter and refrigerator. The seal may have loosened during installation. Fix it before installing the filter. You may want to inspect the filter head for damage or dirt before installation. Clean the head and if it is damaged, replace the filter.

Another possible cause is the filter’s connection point is obstructed. While it may not be dirt, the filter packaging may stick to the connection point and block the water flow. Ensure you completely remove the wrapping and thoroughly inspect the filter for leftover packaging material. But if these do not apply, the filter may have difficulty soaking to supply water.

Typically, a water filter head absorbs some water after installation before water can flow through it. If it has difficulty soaking, it may appear as if the filter is not working. Remove the filter and manually soak it in water for a few minutes. Then, reinstall it and try the dispenser. If all else fails, your refrigerator may need professional service.

KitchenAid Refrigerator Control Panel Not Working – Solutions

The first step to fixing a non-responsive control panel on a KitchenAid refrigerator is to reset it. But that works only if there is no PO displayed on the panel. It means Power Outage, and if there was a recent outage, the control panel flashes the message to alert you, beeps and does not work. Confirm the outage by pressing any button on the control panel. The PO on the panel’s display will disappear, and the control panel should resume functioning.

However, if there was no power outage, reset the refrigerator. There may be a minor error disrupting the power flow to the dispenser. Disconnect the unit from electric power; unplug it from the wall outlet or power down the circuit breaker. Wait five to ten minutes and reconnect the refrigerator to electric power. Turn on the cooling function and check the control panel.

Other Possibilities

The refrigerator may be in Sabbath mode. This mode disables the dispenser functions and turns off the lights. The temperature settings remain the same, and you cannot change them in this mode. Not every KitchenAid refrigerator model has this feature, so check the user manual to determine whether or not your refrigerator comes with the feature.

Sabbath mode is for religious observances that require turning off the dispenser and lights. To turn off the feature, consult the user manual; there is no specific method for disabling the Sabbath mode for all refrigerator models.

If there is no Sabbath mode, the refrigerator may be in demo mode. Retail stores display these refrigerators in this mode; all refrigerator functions except the internal lights are disabled. In other words, the dispenser functions and cooling are off while the refrigerator is in demo or showroom mode.

Some models will display Showroom on the control panel to alert you if you inadvertently turn on the mode. Exiting the demo mode depends on the mode; each refrigerator model with this feature has specific instructions to exit the mode. So, consult the user manual for the steps.

It may be time to service the refrigerator if none of the above works, and resetting it does not fix the control panel. Schedule service with KitchenAid or use an independent technician.

KitchenAid Refrigerator Ice Dispenser Not Working – Fixed

If you find that the ice dispenser on your KitchenAid refrigerator is not working, check the ice maker to ensure it produces ice. The dispenser cannot dispense ice if the ice maker does not produce ice. Turn on the ice maker and ensure water flows into it. Follow the instructions in the user manual to get the ice maker working if it appears jammed, or use the guide in this article.

But if the ice maker produces ice, check the refrigerator doors. Some KitchenAid refrigerator models require the doors to be completely shut for the ice dispenser to work. If the doors are slightly ajar, the door switch may not engage, and the dispenser will not work. Close the doors tightly and try the dispenser. If it works, the problem is solved. Otherwise, the switch is not the source of the dispenser problem.

Check the Control Lock on the refrigerator. The lock keeps the dispenser from working and is handy for keeping children from using the dispenser without supervision. If the lock icon is illuminated, it means the dispenser is locked. Press and hold the Lock button for a few seconds to disable the feature and get the dispenser working again. There may be other methods of disabling the Control Lock for your refrigerator’s specific model, so check the user manual.

Furthermore, check the ice bucket, especially if you recently removed it from under the ice maker. Incorrectly installing the ice storage bucket may cause the dispenser not to work. The dispensing area must correctly align with the ice chute for the cubes to drop. Otherwise, the ice bucket may hold ice, but the dispenser will not work.

Remove the bucket, clean it out if there are ice clumps in it, and carefully reinstall it, ensuring it hits the back of the freezer. Turn on the ice maker to produce ice and try the dispenser again. The user manual is also helpful in correctly installing the ice bucket.

The ice chute may have ice clumps in it, preventing the dispenser from working. High humidity can cause the ice to clump in the chute and cause an obstruction. Use a warm, damp towel to clean the ice chute to remove ice fragments and the ice dispensing area under the ice bucket. Thoroughly dry both areas to prevent further ice obstructions.

Dispenser Parts

If none of the above works, ensure you activate the dispenser lever correctly when trying to dispense ice. First, select the ice option on the dispenser control panel and fully depress the lever. If the dispenser does not work, check the dispenser switches. Several switches work together to provide voltage to the dispenser. If one or more of the switches are defective, the dispenser will not work. Test each switch using a multimeter to check for continuity and replace the faulty ones.

Check the auger in the ice bucket if the dispenser switches are in good working order. The auger spins when you press the dispenser to push ice out. It works with a motor that can fail from usage or too much moisture. The auger may also have broken blades or be disconnected from the motor. If the auger is broken, replace it. But if the motor does not seem to be working, test it with a multimeter to check continuity. If the motor is getting power but is not running or has no continuity, replace it.

Ensure the ice chute door is opening to let ice cubes through the chute. It is controlled by a solenoid, which may become faulty and keep the door from opening. There is also a door motor that closes and opens the door, and if the motor is faulty, the door will not open to allow ice out of the ice bucket. So, test the motor using a multimeter to check for continuity. If there is no continuity, replace the ice door motor. Otherwise, test the solenoid for continuity using a multimeter and replace it if you find no continuity.

You can also check the dispenser actuator; it works together with the switches that provide voltage to the dispenser. The actuator may be broken, and if it is, it may prevent the dispenser switches from providing power to the dispenser. Consequently, the dispenser does not work at all. Examine the actuator and replace it if broken.

KitchenAid Refrigerator Not Working – How to Fix

The first thing to check is the power supply to the refrigerator. One way to determine whether or not the refrigerator is receiving power is to check the internal lights. If the lights do not work and there is no hum from the refrigerator, the motors are not getting any voltage to run. So, check the breaker box; your house may have such a box outside, and you must find the breaker controlling the refrigerator.

If the breaker is tripped, reset and turn it back on to see if the refrigerator resumes operations. Simply turn it off and on, and wait for the appliance to start. If the refrigerator does not start, there may be a blown fuse in the breaker, and you will need an electrician to test each one and replace the faulty one.

Otherwise, check the power cord and wall outlet. One or both of them are faulty, causing the refrigerator to stop working. If you are unsure, disconnect the refrigerator’s power cord from the wall outlet and plug another appliance into it. If the appliance works, the problem may be the power cord or low voltage output, especially if it is a small appliance. But if it does not work, the outlet may be faulty. Use a tester to check it and arrange for a replacement if it does not receive power.

Another possible cause of the refrigerator not working is the main control board. The board governs all the refrigerator’s functions and can determine whether or not it works. If the refrigerator does not work and there is no power issue, test the control board. Consult the user manual for the exact location of the board at the back of the refrigerator and replace it if necessary.

However, if none of the above is why the refrigerator is not working, there may be a defective component. Check the following and fix the necessary ones:

1. Condenser Coils

The condenser coils are vital to how well the refrigerator works or cools. Typically, the coils transfer heat out of the cooling system to enable the refrigerator to work well. However, they become dirty over time, and dirt acts as insulation to keep the coils from efficiently removing heat from the system.

Consequently, the refrigerator stops cooling and may eventually stop working if you do not fix the coil problem. Therefore, disconnect the refrigerator from electric power and find the condenser coils. They may be at the bottom back or underneath the unit. If they are significantly dirty, it explains the refrigerator problem. Remove the dirt using a vacuum cleaner.

You can also use a small brush to clean the coils if you have comfortable access to them. The brush may be more effective in removing stubborn dirt; otherwise, use a small rag to clean them. Ensure the refrigerator is still off while cleaning the coils with a rag. Clean coils cause a refrigerator to function optimally.

2. Evaporator Coils

The evaporator coils are in the freezer section of a refrigerator. If your model has a refrigerator and freezer, remove the rear panel inside the freezer to inspect the evaporator coils. They should be typically cold with a light coat of frost. But if you see heavy frosting on the coils, it may be part of the refrigerator problems.

Unplug the refrigerator and allow it to sit unplugged for a few hours so that the coils can thaw. Afterward, troubleshoot the defrost system to determine if it is causing frost accumulation on the coils or if there is a problem with the door seal. It may be best to hire an appliance technician to check these parts and fix the faulty ones.

The evaporator coils produce the cold air that keeps the refrigerator cool. The refrigerant absorbs the heat from the air in the refrigerator while inside the coils, leaving condensation on them. When cold air meets the warmth, it causes the coils to become cold, along with the refrigerant.

The defrost system keeps the coils from freezing because of their responsibility. But if the system fails to run defrost cycles, the coils become cold until they eventually start freezing. And when there is a significant amount of ice on the evaporator coils, the refrigerator stops working as it should.

3. Condenser Fan

The condenser fan should be at the bottom back of the unit, where you have the compressor and condenser coils. You can consult the user manual for its exact location if it is not readily visible. Disconnect the refrigerator from electric power and take the fan cover off. Next, turn it with your hand and observe how well it moves. If it feels restricted, ensure nothing is obstructing its movement.

Clean the blade and the surrounding area and try the fan again. The motor bearings may be worn if the fan remains stiff, which means replacing the motor. However, run a continuity test on the motor using a multimeter if you find that the bearings are in order without the fan working. And if there is no continuity, replace the fan’s motor.

The fan’s primary purpose in the cooling system is to spread air over the coils and compressor to prevent overheating. Therefore, it typically runs whenever the compressor runs to provide air and aids in transferring heat out of the system as the coils release it. But if it fails, the coils and compressor eventually overheat, stop working, and keep the refrigerator from operating.

4. Start Relay/Capacitor

Turn off the electric power to the refrigerator by unplugging it or powering down the breaker. You will find the relay attached to the compressor, but you must be careful while removing it. Some relays may not require in-depth testing; shaking them should reveal whether or not they are working. If you have a mechanical relay, give it a little shake. A rattle tells you the relay is defective and needs a replacement.

But if there is no rattle or the relay is the electrical type, get a multimeter and check its continuity. Replace the relay if there is no continuity. The relay works together with the compressor’s start winding to help the compressor run. If the relay stops working, the compressor has difficulty starting. And if the compressor does not work, the entire refrigerating system stops working, too.

The start capacitor typically works together with the relay to provide th compressor with the required power to start. A compressor requires a lot of voltage to start but not so much to normalize speed and maintain a steady operation.

Therefore, the capacitor stores electric charge for this purpose and disconnects from the circuit once the compressor successfully starts. However, if the component fails, the compressor may not start at all. Run a continuity test on it using a multimeter; replace the capacitor if you find no continuity.

5. Thermostat

The temperature control thermostat is a vital refrigerator component and can keep the appliance from working or cooling. It provides power to the cooling system, comprising the compressor and fans.

Since it monitors the air temperature using a sensor, the thermostat knows when to alert the control board to supply power to the system. If it fails, the cooling system does not run, and the refrigerator stops cooling. And if the system does not run as it should, it may eventually fail. Turn off the refrigerator and locate the thermostat using the manual for the refrigerator.

Move it from low to high when you find it and listen for a click. If you hear the click, the thermostat is in good working condition. However, the thermostat may be faulty if there is no click. To be sure, run a continuity test on it using a multimeter and replace the thermostat if there is no continuity.

6. Thermistor

The thermistor is a sensor on the control board detecting the internal temperature and the need to run the cooling system. Over time, the sensor may fail, leading to inaccurate temperature readings and a lack of cooling or performance in the refrigerator. Disconnect the refrigerator from electric power and locate the sensor. Check its continuity using a multimeter; if there is none and it shows no resistance on the multimeter, replace the thermistor.

7. Evaporator Fan

The fan is part of the cooling system and spreads the cold air generated in the evaporator coils. There is no way to circulate the cold air from the freezer into the refrigerator if the fan stops working. Sometimes, it appears as if the unit is no longer working. It is usually located in the same compartment as the evaporator coils, so turn off the refrigerator and test the fan.

As with the condenser fan, see if you can turn it with your hand. If the fan appears stiff, check for signs of obstruction and ensure a lack of lubrication is not the problem. With everything in order, try the fan again, and if it remains stiff, it may indicate the motor is faulty. Get a multimeter and test the motor for continuity; replace it if it shows no continuity.

8. Compressor

At the center of the refrigerating system, the compressor is the motor that powers the unit and ensures it remains cold. It compresses the refrigerant and ensures an even distribution in the refrigerator. The appliance stops working if the compressor malfunctions, although its malfunction is not common.

However, if all else fails and the refrigerator is still not working, you may need to test and replace the compressor if necessary. Also, consider scheduling for service with KitchenAid if you are unsure about working on or replacing the compressor due to the cost implications. You can opt for an independent technician if it is more convenient.

KitchenAid Refrigerator Evaporator Fan Not Working – Quick Fix

Ensure no ice or moisture problem is affecting the evaporator fan. It is in the same compartment as the evaporator coils, and excess moisture may find its way in and damage the fan’s motor. Check the door seals and other gaps through which air can enter the compartment and affect the fan.

If that is not an issue with your refrigerator, ensure the fan blade works well. It may be bent or completely damaged; if that is the case, replace the blade. Otherwise, test the fan’s motor with a multimeter to check its continuity. Replace the fan motor if there is no continuity. Monitor the fan for some weeks to see if it fails again; your refrigerator needs service if the fan stops working.

KitchenAid Refrigerator Lights and Water Not Working – What to Do

If you find that the lights and water in your KitchenAid refrigerator are not working, check the door switch. The switch turns off the dispenser when the refrigerator door is open and controls the refrigerator’s interior lights. So, it should be the first thing to check if the water dispenser stops working and the lights go off.

Try activating the switch with the refrigerator door open and see if the lights respond. If they do, the switch may be faulty, causing it to stick and not activate when necessary. You can check its continuity with a multimeter and replace the switch if it registers no continuity. Another possibility is that the dispenser Control Lock feature is active.

If the lights respond to the switch and it shows continuity without the water dispenser working, check to see if the lock icon is lit. If so, follow the instructions in the user manual to deactivate the feature. There may be a dedicated button on the control panel to disable the feature, so locate it and use it to turn it off.

You can also check the main control board. A malfunctioning board can affect the dispenser and light functions, preventing them from working. If that is the case, you will need a new control board. Consider hiring an appliance technician to test the board and determine whether or not it needs a replacement.

KitchenAid Refrigerator Not Working After a Power Outage – Solved

The circuit breaker may be tripped after the power outage, especially if there was a power surge or voltage spike. It is designed to protect appliances and wires in situations like this, so check the breaker controlling the refrigerator to see if it is tripped. It may also have a blown fuse preventing it from powering the refrigerator. Reset the breaker and see if the unit works. If not, you may need to test each fuse to find and replace the faulty one.

If the breaker is not the problem, check the wall outlet. If you have a GFCI outlet, it may be easy to fix. A power surge automatically trips the outlet, but there is a reset switch to turn it on again. Reset the outlet and check to see if the refrigerator resumes operations. But if the unit remains without power after resetting the outlet, check the refrigerator’s power cord.

Inspect the prongs for signs of damage. Also, inspect the cord for kinks or signs of wire damage. If the power cord can no longer carry the refrigerator, it is best to replace it. Otherwise, it may be a fire hazard and may damage more than just the refrigerator. Contact KitchenAid to find a replacement part or order from an authorized seller.

You may also want to confirm the outage if the control panel is beeping. The refrigerator does not work if you do not confirm the outage, and the alarm continues beeping, especially if the internal temperature has risen too high. There may be Power Outage displayed on the panel; press any button on the refrigerator’s panel to stop the beeping and another button to confirm the outage the display should return to the home screen.

If none of the above works, the refrigerator may have a faulty internal component keeping it from working. That means you have to troubleshoot parts such as the thermostat and compressor. Hire a qualified technician for a professional and permanent repair job on the appliance.

KitchenAid Refrigerator Lights Not Working After a Power Outage – Quick Fix

The most likely cause of the lights on your refrigerator not working after a power outage is a damaged main control board. If the interior and dispenser or control panel lights are not working, check and replace the main control board because it controls all the refrigerator functions, including the cooling, defrost, and light operations. But if the control panel lights alone are not working after a power outage, it may be the electronic control board.

Reset the board by unplugging the refrigerator for about five minutes and plugging it back. The reset should fix minor errors with the control board. And if the internal lights are not working, the light control board may be a problem. Consider replacing it. Get assistance from an appliance technician to determine which part is faulty and fix or replace it.

KitchenAid 3-Door Refrigerator Not Cooling But Freezer Is Working – Solutions

The air damper may be broken. The damper is a motorized flap that opens and closes or a few seconds to allow cold air to flow from the freezer into the refrigerator. You may find that the freezer works well, while the refrigerator does not properly cool if the damper is broken or stuck. If it is stuck shut, it cannot allow enough cold air into the refrigerator in a single-cooling refrigerating system. And if the damper is broken, it is best to replace it.

Another part to check is the evaporator fan. The fan is in the freezer section, behind the rear panel where the evaporator coils are housed. The cold air circulates in the freezer and reaches the refrigerator when the fan operates. In other words, there will not be enough cold air for the two sections if the fan fails. Therefore, check the blade to see if it is stuck, frozen, or damaged. If frozen, allow it to thaw and if stuck, remove the obstruction. But replace the fan blade if damaged. Otherwise, run a continuity test on the motor using a multimeter; replace it if there is no continuity.

1. Thermistor

The thermistor detects the refrigerator temperature and alerts the control board so that it turns on the cooling system. A faulty thermistor sends incorrect temperature readings and may cause the refrigerator to stop cooling while the freezer keeps working.

Get a multimeter and test the sensor; its resistance should change as the refrigerator’s temperature changes. If the resistance remains unchanged and you find no continuity, the thermistor is defective and needs a replacement.

2. Defrost System

The evaporator coils may be covered with a thick layer of ice due to a defrost system malfunction. If the coils are frozen, it explains the lack of cold air in the refrigerator. The freezer may remain cold, but there will not be enough cold air to cover both compartments. Test the defrost timer, defrost thermostat, and defrost heater. You can also check the defrost control board, but only if none of the other components are faulty.

You can schedule for service if none of the above solutions works for your refrigerator. Contact the KitchenAid Customer Service center to report the issue and make an appointment or employ the services of an independent technician.

Note: These steps also apply to all KitchenAid refrigerator types.

KitchenAid Refrigerator Defrost Not Working – Solved

Check the defrost drain in the freezer section to see if it is clogged. The refrigerator may not correctly or fully defrost if the drain has debris obstructing the water flow. One sign the drain is clogged is leaking water from under the refrigerator. However, it may be best to ensure the drain is clean even if you do not see water leaking from the unit.

If there is ice over the defrost drain hole, disconnect the refrigerator from electric power until the ice melts. You can opt to use a hairdryer if power disconnection is not a viable option due to stored perishable foods. Once the ice melts, try pushing the dirt out of the drain using a stiff wire. Another option is to pour a mixture of bleach and water down the drain until it flushes the dirt out and sanitizes the drain tube.

Remember to remove, empty, and clean the drain pan after cleaning the drain pipe. The dirt and water may stand and not evaporate from the pan as quickly as they should. This is especially true if the pan is already dirty. Wash it with soap and water and sanitize it with bleach or vinegar. Afterward, try the defrost function again and see if it works; this guide shows you how to force defrost the refrigerator.

However, if the drain is not clogged or cleaning does not fix the defrost problem, it may indicate the defrost system has failed. Check the defrost system components and replace the faulty ones. The defrost timer is the most likely to have stopped working, but the defrost heater may also be faulty. The same applies to the defrost thermostat and control board.

Replaced Circuit Board on KitchenAid Refrigerator and Buttons Don’t Work Correctly

The problem may stem from using the wrong circuit or control board. But before deciding this, try resetting the refrigerator. Disconnect it from electric power for about five to ten minutes. This gives the board and other necessary components time to reset. Reconnect the refrigerator to electric power and ensure the cooling function is operating. Then, check the buttons on the control panel again to see if they are working correctly.

If the problem persists, you may have to run diagnostics on the refrigerator. How you enter the diagnostics mode depends on the specific refrigerator model, so consult the user manual for further instructions. If you no longer have the manual, search for one online using your refrigerator’s model number or contact the KitchenAid Center for assistance. Ensure the air baffle or damper is not stuck before entering the diagnostics mode. The compressor and fan motors must operate, and the freezer and refrigerator temperatures must be stable.

How Does the Door Stop Work on a KitchenAid Refrigerator?

The door stop is the part of the door that allows it to open just far enough for the easy tray and pan removal. In other words, it prevents the door from swinging too far and damaging surrounding walls, surfaces, or the door itself. It is usually fixed on the bottom hinge of the door, and when broken, it causes the door to make a loud popping sound. Fortunately, you can easily replace it, but it must be with a compatible replacement part.

KitchenAid Freezer Not Working But Refrigerator Does – Fixed

Check the door seal; it may be weak, loose, or simply dirty. If the refrigerator is still cooling as it should, but the freezer is not working, it will lose cold air. Therefore, inspect the seal for dirt or looseness. If dirty, clean it with warm soapy water, and if loose, tuck it back in place using a small flat-head screwdriver. However, if the seal is weak, it can no longer create a tight seal, and you should replace it.

The door seal may not be the problem, so check the condenser coils. Dirty coils cannot release heat from the system, which affects the freezer’s cooling capacity. Clean the coils using a vacuum cleaner and ensure you repeat the process every six to twelve months. Another part to check is the start relay. If the relay is defective, the compressor will not run as much as it should to produce cool air.

Since the refrigerator does not need excessive cooling, the compressor’s intermittent operation can provide enough cool air but not for the freezer. Remove the relay from the compressor’s side and test it for continuity using a multimeter. Replace the relay if there is no continuity. Do the same with the capacitor if the refrigerator has one, and replace it if you find no continuity.

The condenser fan may also be out of order, meaning that it no longer provides cool air for the condenser coils and compressor to operate. And if these parts overheat, the freezer’s cooling capacity drops. Test the fan to ensure the motor is in good working condition. The blade may be bad, or the motor may be faulty. Replace the motor or the entire fan assembly if it is not working.

Also, the freezer may have excessive ice buildup, either inside it or in the evaporator compartment. Reducing the ice accumulation in the freezer encourages the smooth flow of cold air, so allow the freezer or evaporator coils to defrost. A newer KitchenAid refrigerator model should have an automatic defrost function, which means the freezer automatically defrosts at specific times of the day. If the defrost function does not work, you may have to replace certain parts.

But the evaporator fan may be defective, and if the fan is not working, there will not be enough cold air in the freezer. The cooling system may produce enough cold air but requires the fan to circulate it. Otherwise, the freezer stops working or cooling. Test the fan to ensure the motor is in good working order. You can replace the blade if bent or damaged, but replace the entire fan assembly if it has no continuity when tested with a multimeter.

Note that the freezer may not work well if too many items are in it. Overpacking the freezer restricts the airflow and keeps it from freezing or cooling well. The poor arrangement prevents the cold air from circulating, even if the evaporator fan is fully operational, and this is especially true if the items are stored when warm or at room temperature.

Typically, you should keep the freezer ¾ full at most. When too full or too empty, the freezer does not work as it should. Therefore, reduce the items; put some in the refrigerator. Do not store hot food; leave it out to cool before storing it. These steps should fix the freezer problem, but get professional service if the problem persists.

KitchenAid Refrigerator Door Alarm Not Working – Quick Fix

The main control board may be faulty, but before checking the board, ensure the alarm is not off. Some models may have a way to turn off the alarm, so check the user manual to see if you accidentally turned the alarm off. There is another possibility that the sound is off without necessarily damaging the alarm.

That means you have to replace the control board. The board controls the refrigerator functions and can stop the alarm from working if faulty. Hire an appliance technician to test the board and determine whether or not you need a new control board or if the old one can be fixed.

KitchenAid Refrigerator Ice Maker Sensor Not Working – What to Do

The sensor that checks the ice level in your KitchenAid refrigerator ice maker may be obstructed or dirty. Dirt can cause the sensor to stop working, and the ice scoop may be incorrectly positioned, blocking the sensor. Rearrange the ice scoop to clear the path to the sensor. Otherwise, clean the sensor with warm soapy water because dirt may cause it to malfunction.

In addition, do not store items in the ice bucket; it should only contain ice. Using the ice bucket as storage space may permanently damage it. However, the ice maker control board may be bad if the problem continues because the sensor detects the ice level and alerts the control board to turn on the ice maker. Check the board and replace it if it no longer works.

KitchenAid Refrigerator Compressor Not Working – Solved

The start relay may be faulty, which can keep the compressor from working. Test the relay and check the condenser fan while at it. The fan can also keep the compressor from functioning as it should. Furthermore, check the thermistor and temperature control thermostat. And test the temperature control thermostat. Lastly, check the compressor, which may fail due to poor usage, loose wires, or age. This article on a KitchenAid refrigerator compressor not working explains how to test each part and fix them.

Will a KitchenAid Refrigerator Water Work Without a Filter?

A KitchenAid refrigerator will work without a water filter, but only if you use a bypass plug. The refrigerators with filter housings must have a filter to stop the water from leaking. Some models have a built-in bypass plug, so you may not need to install a bypass plug when there is no filter. Check the refrigerator’s manual to see whether or not there is an internal plug; the unit will work with it if you remove the filter. Otherwise, install the one that comes with the refrigerator or purchase a compatible one.

KitchenAid Refrigerator Ice Maker Not Working, Red Light Blinking – Quick Fix

Several reasons can cause the ice maker in your KitchenAid refrigerator, but if the red status light is blinking, there may be an issue with the optics boards. Try resetting the ice maker; ensure the ice maker switch is on or the shut-off arm is in the On position.

Next, locate the door switch and press it to turn the lights off. Close the door for a few seconds and open it again. Once you open it, press the door switch three times and close the door again. Wait a few seconds for the ice maker to reset; this should stop the red light from blinking.

If that does not work, the ice maker may have ice jammed in it. Use a plastic spatula to clear the ice after inspecting the machine. Otherwise, clear the optic sensor as we have described above. You may also consider replacing the optic boards if none of the above fixes corrects the status light blinking on your ice maker.

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