This article explains the steps to troubleshoot a KitchenAid refrigerator. If you have issues with the refrigerator, learn how to find and fix them through easy instructions.
Table of Contents
KitchenAid Refrigerator Troubleshooting
The following are possible KitchenAid refrigerator issues and how to troubleshoot and fix them:
KitchenAid Refrigerator Not Cooling
If you find that your KitchenAid refrigerator is not cooling, check the following parts and replace any faulty ones:
- Condenser coils
- Condenser fan motor
- Evaporator fan motor
- Temperature control thermostat
- Start relay/capacitor
- Thermistor
- Temperature control board
- Compressor
- Main control board
This article on a KitchenAid refrigerator not cooling at all is a detailed explanation of how to troubleshoot each part and fix them if possible. Otherwise, you may need to replace them.
KitchenAid Refrigerator Ice Maker Not Working
Several faults can cause the ice maker in your KitchenAid refrigerator to stop working. Check the following and fix them if the machine stops working:
- Power supply
- Freezer temperature setting
- Water filter
- Water line
- Water pressure
- Water inlet valve
Learn more from this article on a KitchenAid refrigerator ice maker not working to find and fix the problem. Also, check individual ice maker parts, such as the module, ice mold thermostat, ice level sensor, or the entire ice maker assembly. The refrigerator’s door switch may malfunction and stop the ice dispenser from working. And if the dispenser fails to work, it may seem like the ice maker is not working. Check and replace the door switch if applicable.
KitchenAid Refrigerator Not Defrosting
If you find that the defrost function on a KitchenAid refrigerator fails to work, it is most likely because the system’s components have failed. Typically, there are four key components: timer, heater, thermostat, and control board. In some cases, there may be a defrost sensor that works with a fuse. If one or more of these components fail, the refrigerator will not defrost. Therefore, troubleshoot each one following the instructions in this article and fix or replace any faulty parts.
Otherwise, check the main control board. Since the control board regulates the refrigerator’s power and functions, a bad one can stop the defrost system from working, even if other parts are in good working order. Test the control board by checking for arcing signs and other damage. If you are unsure, let a professional technician check the board and replace it if necessary.
KitchenAid Refrigerator Defrost Drain Clogged
A few issues can cause the defrost drain on a KitchenAid refrigerator to clog. One is dirt or debris. Constant refrigerator usage means that dirt will eventually find its way into the drain as the defrost water flows out. Food crumbs, dust particles, and other contaminants build up until the drain clogs. Regular refrigerator maintenance should keep the drain and other parts clean, but irregular maintenance causes this problem.
Another possibility is ice covering the drain. This comes on the heels of debris clogging it; water cannot flow out of the freezer, and the water freezes over the drain over time. Consequently, the water backs up into the freezer and may build mold. One tell-tale sign of a clogged drain is a leaking refrigerator.
Clean the defrost drain and melt the ice covering it if applicable. Hold a hairdryer over the drain hole, which is usually at the bottom center of the freezer’s back wall. Some models will require removing the shelves and other items to access the drain hole. The warm air from the dryer should melt the ice and when it does, monitor the water to see if it flows out.
If it does not, clear the drain tube of dirt using warm water and a stiff wire. Water alone may not completely flush it, so use a stiff object to push the dirt out of the tube. Then, flush the drain again with water, vinegar, or bleach until it is clear.
Furthermore, clean the drain pan under the refrigerator, where all the dirt and water go. If your model has a removable drain pan, it is easier to empty and clean with water and bleach. But if not, settle for manually drying it with absorbent towels until it is dry. Afterward, use wet wipes on a long stick to clean it as well as you can.
Drain Strap
You may find that the drain hole has a strap, a small aluminum piece connected to the defrost heater. It partially extends into the drain, and when the heater gets hot, it absorbs some of the heat to keep the drain from clogging. If the drain clogs even though it has a strap, it may be because the strap is not properly positioned. The drain clogs with ice and cannot allow the outflow of defrost water. Rearrange the strap and monitor the drain to see if the freezing problem continues. If it does, ensure the defrost heater is working.
Drain Heater
Instead of a strap, some models have a heater that keeps the drain water from freezing and refreezing. If the water in the drain freezes, it stops the outflow of water as the refrigerator defrosts. Eventually, the defrost function may stop working, and the refrigerator will stop cooling. Therefore, replace a defective drain heater to improve the defrost drain functions.
KitchenAid Refrigerator Leaking Water
The primary reason a KitchenAid refrigerator leaks water is a clogged defrost drain. The drain may be clogged due to debris or ice over the hole. So, check the drain at the center back of the freezer section for signs of ice clogging. Use a hairdryer set at mid-point to melt the ice. Alternatively, turn off the refrigerator for some time until the ice melts. You can also opt to pour warm water over the drain until the ice melts.
Clear the drain hole of debris, which is usually the reason it ices over in the first place. When water cannot flow out of the freezer, it stands and freezes as the freezer continues to run. Use water and bleach to clean it until the water runs free and clear. Remember to empty the drain pan if you find standing water in it. It is easier to clean a removable drain pan than a built-in type, but there are ways to do it, as discussed above.
But if the defrost drain is clean and unclogged yet, the refrigerator keeps leaking water, check the following:
Water Filter and Housing
The filter keeps the water for ice and drinking clean. The water will not be filtered if it fails to work or is incorrectly installed. Also, water will leak from the refrigerator due to the incorrect installation. The water filter must be the correct type to work for your KitchenAid refrigerator.
Using the wrong type may restrict water flow, build pressure, and cause the dispenser and other parts to leak water. Inspect the filter for damage to the head. If the filter head is damaged, it will cause the refrigerator to leak. The seal may be torn or be missing completely. The head may also be cracked, which will cause the water to leak from the refrigerator.
If any of this is the case, you will need to replace the filter. Otherwise, check the water filter housing; a damaged housing will let water through as it flows from the filter to the ice maker or water dispenser. Replace the filter housing if it is cracked and leaking water.
Water Reservoir
The reservoir is a small tank inside the refrigerator that stores water for the water dispenser. The water cools while in the reservoir so that you can get cold water from the dispenser. But if the reservoir cracks, it causes water to leak from the refrigerator. This is not typical, so it should not be the first component to check if the unit leaks water. You may want to fix it if you find cracks on it, but glue or other adhesives may not hold the plastic material together. Instead, replace the reservoir.
Water Inlet Valve
A defective water inlet is another possible cause of a leaking refrigerator. It is an electrically-controlled component that opens to supply water to the ice maker and water dispenser. That way, it controls the amount of water flowing into the refrigerator per time to prevent an overflow. If the valve fails, it may stop closing, and water will overflow the refrigerator and leak. Also, water leaks from it if it has cracks or is loosely connected to the water line. So, inspect the valve and replace it if it fails to work or is cracked.
Drain Pan
Many KitchenAid refrigerator models have automatic defrost systems to prevent the evaporator coils from freezing and ice from accumulating in the freezer. The defrost water flows out through the drain tube and collects under the refrigerator in the drain pan. If the pan has cracks, the defrost water will leak from under the refrigerator. Check the pan and clean it; inspect it further for cracks and replace it if necessary.
KitchenAid Refrigerator Ice and Water Dispenser Not Working
Check the door switch to determine whether or not it is defective. The door switch turns off the dispenser when you open the refrigerator door to prevent accidental dispensing. The location of the switch on the refrigerator depends on the model, but you may find it on the top part of the refrigerator’s inside frame. Consult the user manual for the switch’s exact location. Activate it by pressing it and see if the dispense responds. If it does not, use a multimeter to test its continuity. Replace the door switch if there is no continuity.
But if the door switch is not defective, check the dispenser switches. Several switches supply voltage to the dispenser; if one fails, the dispenser stops working. Get a multimeter and test each switch to check for continuity. Replace the faulty ones and try the dispenser to see if it resumes working.
Ensure the water filter is the correct type, is not logged, and is correctly installed. Otherwise, the dispenser stops working. Also, check the water inlet valve. The valve provides water for the dispenser and ice maker and can stop them from working. If the inlet valve is defective, replacing it is crucial to fixing the dispenser problem.
If all else fails, check the dispenser control board. The board is responsible for the dispenser functions and can stop it from working if it fails. However, the control board hardly fails, so it should not be the first component to check. Users easily misdiagnose control boards and may throw out completely functional ones. So, ensure to check the board and replace it only if you are sure it is damaged.
KitchenAid Refrigerator Light Not Working
The refrigerator’s light may have a dead bulb. The bulb does not easily die, but moisture can cause premature damage. The light socket may also be faulty, meaning it cannot power the light bulb. There may be loose wiring. Another possibility is that the light switch is defective or the light has failed. Check out this article on a Kitchen refrigerator light not working to find steps to troubleshoot and fix this problem.
KitchenAid Refrigerator Control Panel Not Working
There may be a power outage issue or a minor internal error. Resetting the control panel should fix the problem unless you need to confirm a power outage to get the control panel working again. This article explains how to reset the control panel and other steps to fix the control panel on your KitchenAid refrigerator.
KitchenAid Refrigerator Freezer Is Not Working But Refrigerator Is
Check the door seal, condenser coils, start relay, and evaporator coils. Also, check the evaporator fan, condenser fan, thermistor, content arrangement, and compressor. You will find detailed instructions in this article on troubleshooting each part and making the necessary repairs.
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KitchenAid Refrigerator Not Working [Problems Solved]
KitchenAid Refrigerator Producing a Burning Smell
Several issues cause a refrigerator to produce a burning smell, but the first and most important step is to turn off the refrigerator. A burning smell means there is a fire hazard, and cutting the power to the refrigerator reduces the chances of a fire. You may want to hire an appliance technician to find the source of the burning smell or troubleshoot further yourself.
The first part to check is the light inside the refrigerator. There is a possibility that the bulb does not go off when you close the refrigerator door. Slowly close the door and peek to see if the light goes off when the door is almost fully closed. If it remains on, it explains the burning smell. The plastic materials around the light are melting due to the heat from the bulb, producing the smell. The light socket may be faulty, or the switch no long turns it off. Consider replacing the socket; fix the light switch if the socket is not the problem.
Next, check the compressor. A small device attached to the side, called the start relay, usually produces the power for the compressor to start and run. If the relay becomes defective, it may cause the compressor to have a hard time starting. The effort to start without the relay may produce a burning smell. The defective relay may also cause the refrigerator to smell like it is burning. Replace the relay and see if it gets the compressor running. Otherwise, you will need professional assistance to check the compressor.
Another likely cause of the burning smell is the wire connections. It may come from the power cord, the wall outlet, or the wiring in the house. Refrigerators require high voltage, and if the house has old wiring, it may be unable to carry the appliance. This, in turn, leads to melting wires and burning smells. It is best to disconnect the power cord from the wall outlet and call for professional help in such a case. Keep the refrigerator unplugged until a technician or electrician can determine the source of the smell.
You may also want to check the condenser fan motor. A defective motor may produce an awful burning smell as it tries to run. The effort to start increases the smell. While at it, check the control board. The relays on the board may become damaged, or the solder points may burn. So, consider replacing the condenser fan motor or the control board to stop the burning smell.
Ice from KitchenAid Refrigerator Is Dirty
The first thing to check is the water supply. The main water supply may be contaminated, producing dirty water for the refrigerator. Run some water from the kitchen faucet and check how clean it is. If the water is dirty, contact the appropriate authorities to report the issue and find a permanent solution.
But if the water is clean, the problem may stem from the water line. Over time, mineral deposits and other contaminants clog the water line and make it dirty. The dirt eventually finds its way into the water supply and causes the ice maker to produce dirty ice. You may also notice the same with the water supply.
You may also want to check the fill tube directly supplying water to the ice maker. If it is dirty, the ice will come out dirty. Run water through the fill tube and water line for some time until the water clears and the tubes are clean. You may have to discard the ice produced at this time and keep making more until you have a clean ice batch.
The last place to check is the ice maker. Constant usage can make the machine dirty; deposits from the water stick to the machine, making it dirty. Another possibility is that the coating on the ice maker is peeling into the water before it becomes ice. If the ice maker is not coated, it means there is dirt, and you need to clean it. Otherwise, replace the ice maker if the coating is peeling.
KitchenAid Refrigerator Door Not Closing Properly
The door hinge may be out of place or bent. The hinge keeps it aligned and enables it to open and close, but if it bends or breaks, it stops the door from closing properly. Several things can bend or damage the hinge, such as too much weight on the door or improper installation. Check the hinge and make proper adjustments, or replace it if damaged.
If the hinge is in good working condition, check the door cam. The closing cam is a small piece of plastic on the bottom hinge pin that helps the door swing shut. But if the cam breaks, you may hear a loud popping noise as you open and close the door. It is typically a two-person job to inspect and replace the cam because of the weight of the door and the steps to remove it. But if the cam is damaged, the door can no longer close, so replace it.
Lastly, check the door gasket, especially if there is no loud popping noise while opening or closing the door and the hinge is intact. A loose or weak gasket can keep the door from closing properly, although it does not always happen. You can try to push the gasket back into place using a small screwdriver. And if it is twisted, try using a hairdryer to straighten it. However, replace the door gasket if it is worn; ensure you purchase a replacement using the refrigerator’s model number.
Important Note
A poor content arrangement can keep the refrigerator door from closing. The same is true if you overstock the refrigerator. Items or shelves may stick out fo place and poke the door open; while it may look closed, the door may remain slightly ajar. Therefore, rearrange the refrigerator contents and ensure all the shelves, racks, and bins are in place. Reduce the contents if you recently put too many items in the unit to accommodate the door.
KitchenAid Refrigerator Water Dispenser Not Working
The following are possible causes for the water dispenser on your KitchenAid refrigerator not working:
- The control lock is active
- The water filter is clogged
- The in-door water line is frozen
- The water supply is low or poor
- The water inlet valve is faulty
- The door switch is defective
- The dispenser switches are bad
- The dispenser lever is not fully engaged
- The dispenser control board needs a replacement
One or more of the above issues may cause the water dispenser to stop working. Therefore, follow the instructions in this article on a KitchenAid refrigerator water dispenser not working on troubleshooting further and fixing the problem.
KitchenAid Refrigerator Ice Dispenser Not Working
Ensure the Control Lock is not active and the water filter is not old. The fill tube may be obstructed with ice, restricting the water flow into the ice maker. If the ice maker cannot make ice, there will be nothing for the dispenser to produce. Also, check the ice chute for obstructions because ice fragments may clog it, especially if you do not regularly use the ice dispenser.
Furthermore, check the doors to ensure they close fully to activate the door switch. The ice bucket must be in place and fully inserted inside the refrigerator for the dispenser to work. If these do not fix the problem, check the dispenser parts, such as the dispenser lever, auger motor, actuator, ice chute door, and dispenser switches. You will find helpful resources in this article to check and repair the ice dispenser.
KitchenAid Refrigerator Is Loud
The motors in the refrigerator are the most likely parts to generate noise. Also, the fan blades may cause the appliance to make noise. So, begin your troubleshooting with the fans: evaporator and condenser fans. The evaporator fan is in the freezer section, while the condenser fan is usually at the bottom back of the unit.
Check the fan blades to ensure they are not caught in external objects. Ice can bear down on the evaporator fan blade and make it noisy. On the other hand, dirt can cause the condenser fan blade to generate noise. Clean the blades and ensure nothing is obstructing them. If the noise persists, check the fan motors. When the bearings start wearing out, the motor may become noisy as it has a harder time operating. And if the bearings wear out, you must replace the fan motors.
The water inlet valve can also become noisy, especially when it is clogged with mineral deposits. If you notice that the noise increases when the ice mold fills with water, the inlet valve may be the source. Listen at the bottom back of the refrigerator while the ice fills; if the noise is loudest at that point, you may have to replace the inlet valve. Repairing it may not solve the problem. Otherwise, check the compressor, especially if the condenser fan and inlet valve are in good working condition.
Compressors take a long time to fail, if ever. They are built to last as long as the refrigerator works, sometimes longer. But if the noise comes from there, it may indicate a fault. However, you do not have to replace the compressor immediately after you notice the noise; the motor may last for several years with it. If you can bear the noise, consider using it as long as it continues functioning. Compressors are expensive, and replacing them may not be the best step.
Other refrigerator parts can generate loud noises, such as the ice maker or water lines. You must determine which noise is normal and which indicates a fault before deciding whether or not you need to replace a component.
KitchenAid Refrigerator Freezer Is Cold But Refrigerator Is Warm
Check the following parts of your KitchenAid refrigerator if the freezer works, but the refrigerator is warm:
- Evaporator fan
- Air damper
- Defrost system
Check out this article on a KitchenAid refrigerator not cooling, but the freezer is working to find details on how to fix the problem.
The evaporator coils may also be frozen. The refrigerant absorbs the heat from the air while in the evaporator coils. This means the coils must not freeze because it is from there that the cold air comes. If the coils freeze, there will not be enough cold air to circulate. So, you may find the freezer is cool, but the refrigerator is warm.
Turn off the refrigerator for a few hours by unplugging it or powering down the breaker. Alternatively, use a hairdryer to thaw the coils for a faster resolution. However, be aware that this solution is temporary, and you must find out why the coils froze. The most likely reason is a defective defrost system, and troubleshooting each component is crucial.
You may also want to check the main control board, but only if other repair steps fail to fix the problem. Since the control board governs the refrigerator functions, a damaged one can cause the cooling system to malfunction. However, ensure you fully determine whether or not the board is faulty before replacing it. It is usually easy to diagnose a control board wrongly.
KitchenAid Refrigerator Freezing Food
You may have set the refrigerator temperature lower than the recommended settings. Always check the user manual for the best setting to keep your food fresh. Also, check the door gasket; a leaky gasket can cause the cold air to escape and warm air to replace it. Consequently, the refrigerator constantly runs to keep the temperature from rising, causing the food to freeze.
Furthermore, check the damper as it lets cold air into the refrigerator. The temperature board may keep the refrigerator running until the food in it freezes. Additionally, check the condenser coils, food arrangement, and main control board. Find detailed instructions in this article on troubleshooting each part and making the necessary repairs.
KitchenAid Refrigerator Ice Maker Overflowing
The ice maker may be defective, but check the water inlet valve before replacing the machine. The inlet valve must have a water pressure of at least 20 psi to close completely. If the water pressure is insufficient, the inlet valve remains partially open. As a result, water trickles into the ice mold until the machine overflows.
The inlet valve may also be defective, causing it to remain open, even if the water pressure is enough to close it. First, check the pressure and make the necessary adjustments to fix it if it is lower than 20 psi. Otherwise, test the inlet valve and replace it if it is defective.
But if the water inlet valve is in good working condition, you may have to test individual ice maker components. This may be difficult, especially if you do not know what parts to check. Also, the entire ice maker assembly may malfunction and cause a water overflow. So, consider replacing the assembly to fix the problem. You can opt to hire a service technician to test the ice maker and fix it if possible.
KitchenAid Refrigerator Runs Constantly
When the temperature rises inside the refrigerator, the compressor and fans tend to work overtime to maintain a cool temperature. So, check the condenser coils. They are the part responsible for transferring heat out of the refrigerating system to prevent overheating. However, there must be adequate air circulation for the heat transfer to work.
Otherwise, it remains trapped and affects the compressor and other components. The refrigerator’s temperature eventually starts rising, and the system continuously runs to cool it. Clean the condenser coils and ensure there is enough clearance around the refrigerator to allow the free flow of air. It eliminates the problem of trapped heat behind the unit.
Also, check the temperature setting. You or someone else may have inadvertently adjusted the temperature, moving it to a higher point. This is especially true for the freezer section, which needs to be low enough to freeze food. The refrigerator constantly runs to stay cold if the temperature rises above 5 degrees Fahrenheit or 15 degrees Celsius.
Check the setting and adjust it if necessary. But if it is correct, place a thermometer between two frozen foods and check it after 24 hours. It should tell you the correct setting in the refrigerator. If it is too high, adjust the setting to a lower point until the internal temperature reaches the set point. Then, set it to the recommended point again.
Fan Motors
The evaporator fan may be defective, or the evaporator coils may be frozen. If the coils are frozen, they cannot release cold air for the refrigerator, even if the fan is working. And if the fan stops working, it cannot circulate the cold air in the refrigerator, even if the coils are not frozen. So, check the coils and fan to see if they have an ice buildup.
Unplug the KitchenAid refrigerator from the wall outlet until the ice melts. Alternatively, use a heat source such as a hairdryer to thaw the coils and fan. Sometimes, the fan motor can fail and stop the fan from working. So, run a continuity test on it using a multimeter and replace it if there is no continuity.
Door Gasket
A worn door gasket can let in warm air, and as the moisture in the air settles on the evaporator coils, it condenses and eventually freezes. Also, the refrigerator quickly loses cold air, and this keeps it from cooling as it should. Consequently, the refrigerator runs to maintain the cold temperature.
See if the gasket is worn or simply loose; it may even be kinked. Replace the part if it is worn or push it back into place if loose. And if it is kinked, use a hair dryer to soften it so that you can easily straighten it.
Defrost System
Test each component in the defrost system, starting with the defrost timer. The timer has the job of moving the system in and out of a defrost cycle. If it stops working, the system may remain in a defrost cycle, and the cooling system cannot run. And if the cooling does not work, the refrigerator constantly runs to ensure it is cold.
Turn the timer with a small flat-head screwdriver until it clicks. If there is no response, you may have to replace the timer. If the timer is working well, check the defrost heater. The heater turns on to warm the evaporator coils, but it may fail over time. Run a continuity test on the heater using a multimeter and replace it if you find no continuity.
You can also check the thermostat, which sends voltage to the heater to run. If the thermostat stops working, it may keep the heater running. As with the heater, run a continuity test on the thermostat with a multimeter. Replace it if it registers no continuity. If all else fails, test the control board that governs the defrost system. It may not cause the problem, but it may help to ensure it is in good working condition. Replace the defrost control board if it is not working.
Main Control Board
The refrigerator’s control board may not be working as it should. Since it controls the entire refrigerator function, including the defrost and cooling functions, it may be best to ensure it is not damaged. You may need professional help to test the board and determine whether or not you need a new one.
KitchenAid Refrigerator Diagnostic Codes
If you want to run diagnostics on your Kitchenaid refrigerator, you must first put it in service mode. This article explains the steps to enter the service mode and how to test each component. The diagnostic mode also allows you to test the control board and determine whether it should be replaced. Follow the instructions in the article to learn all the diagnostic codes and run different tests on your refrigerator, no matter the model.
KitchenAid Refrigerator Moisture Buildup Troubleshooting
You may find moisture or condensation building up in the freezer or refrigerator section. A few issues can cause a moisture buildup, but it is crucial to find out the cause and fix it. Otherwise, you risk having an ice accumulation problem in your KitchenAid refrigerator, which restricts airflow and leads to other problems with the appliance.
Leaving the refrigerator doors open for long periods can cause condensation to build. Cold air escapes, and warm air replaces it. Warm air tends to carry humidity or moisture, which settles on cold parts inside the refrigerator and condenses. Check the door seal and ensure it sticks to the cabinet. Also, ensure nothing is sticking out of the refrigerator between the cabinet and seal. You may have to replace the door seal if it lets too much warm air into the refrigerator.
But if the seal is not the problem, check the air vents. Obstructing the vents restricts how the air flows into the refrigerator from the freezer and encourages moisture building due to a lack of cooling. If you recently loaded the refrigerator and noticed the moisture problem, you may have one or more items blocking th vents. Rearrange the refrigerator, ensuring nothing is in the vents’ path.
Furthermore, you may be opening the refrigerator door too often. Frequent door opening has the same effects on the refrigerator as when the seal is loose or weak. If you must use the refrigerator, list items you need and make it one trip. The same applies if you want to load it; do it once so that you do not have to open the door often. Another possible problem is holding the door open as you decide what you want. It causes the refrigerator to lose cold air, which builds moisture.
However, if none of these applies, you may have an internal component problem. The cooling function may be off, or parts of the cooling system are failing. Check the compressor, evaporator fan, and condenser fan. Ensure the evaporator coils are not covered with ice, and there is proper air circulation around the refrigerator. Contact the KitchenAid Service Center to schedule a service to fix the moisture problem if it persists after troubleshooting and repairs.
Important Notes
The same troubleshooting and repair steps apply if you notice a moisture buildup in the freezer section. Also, some refrigerator models come equipped with a mullion in the center frame between the doors. The mullion prevents condensation from forming on the door seals and frames so that they do not freeze shut. If the mullion is off, you may notice moisture as the refrigerator continues to run. Consult the user manual to determine how to control the mullion if your refrigerator has one.
KitchenAid Refrigerator Troubleshooting – Not Cooling and Makes a Clicking Noise
Clicking noise from the refrigerator may indicate an operating problem with the compressor. The start relay attached to the compressor’s side enables it to run by providing the power for it to start, run, and maintain a steady speed before disconnecting from the circuit.
However, if the relay becomes defective, the compressor cannot run. So, you may hear clicking as the compressor tries and fails to run. Remove the relay and shake it; if it rattles, you need to replace it. Otherwise, check for continuity on the relay using a multimeter. Replace the relay if there is no continuity.
You may also check the defrost timer. The timer can make a clicking or ticking noise if it is faulty and stop the refrigerator from cooling if it cannot advance the system out of a defrost cycle. The location of the timer depends on the refrigerator model, but you can check the user manual to find its location. Test it to determine whether or not it is working; turn it counterclockwise and wait for a click. If there is no click, check for continuity; replace the timer if there is no continuity.
KitchenAid Refrigerator Troubleshooting – Not Cooling After Door Left Open All Night
Try leaving the refrigerator door shut for 24 hours. Do not open it, but if you must, limit the time the door is open. As much as possible, keep it shut for one day. The refrigerator may only need to stay shut for many hours to resume its cooling function because it stayed open for so long. But if that does not work, manually defrost the entire unit. The open door let warm air into the refrigerator, which caused condensation, and a significant amount of ice may have accumulated on the evaporator coils.
Empty the freezer and refrigerator of all food items. If you have perishable foods, store them in an ice-packed cooler or another refrigerator with a freezer. Disconnect the refrigerator from electric power and open all the doors. Leave them open and the appliance unplugged for several hours to ensure a full defrost.
Afterward, clean the excess water and reconnect the refrigerator to electric power. Allow it to run for about six to eight hours and check the temperature in the freezer and refrigerator. If both sections cool well, the problem is solved. But if the cooling problem persists in the refrigerator, the return air vent or air damper may be obstructed with ice.
Open the freezer door and activate the door switch by pressing and holding it. Activating the switch should get the evaporator fan running while the door is open. With the freezer door still open and the fan running, open the refrigerator door and place a hand near the vents. The damper is likely frozen or stuck shut if you feel no cold air. But if you feel cold air, the return vent in the evaporator section is blocked with ice or closed. Clear the ice to fix the problem.
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