KitchenAid Refrigerator Not Cooling [How to Fix]

This article discusses how to solve the problem of a KitchenAid refrigerator not cooling. It also explains how to solve other cooling problems with any KitchenAid refrigerator model.

KitchenAid refrigerator not cooling
Photo Credit: Goedeker’s, (under license)

KitchenAid Refrigerator Cold Settings

KitchenAid sets the refrigerator temperature at 37 degrees Fahrenheit and 0 degrees Fahrenheit for the freezer. When you buy a new KitchenAid refrigerator, these are the factory settings for the temperature, but you can adjust them to desired settings, depending on where you live. Find helpful resources in this article on adjusting the temperature settings on your KitchenAid refrigerator to raise or lower the temperatures.

However, it is crucial to note that different parts of the refrigerator have varying temperatures. For example, the bottom of the refrigerator is colder than the top because cold air is heavy and tends to drop. Also, the door is typically warmer than other parts because of the constant opening and closing. Keep this in mind when organizing and storing items in different sections.

Setting the temperature in your KitchenAid refrigerator is crucial for some reasons. It must be safe for food storage and to keep the refrigerator functioning optimally. The cooling system must work normally to avoid premature damage. If the temperature setting is incorrect or irregular, the compressor and fan motors may wear out before they are due. Therefore, ensure you follow the user manual instructions to set the temperature to cold settings.

How Long Should It Take for a KitchenAid Refrigerator to Get Cold?

It take about 24 hours for a new KitchenAid refrigerator installation to get cold. The time is for the refrigerator to achieve the proper internal temperature for correct food storage and preservation. Incorrect temperatures can affect stored foods, especially perishable ones. Moreover, it can determine how well the appliance performs in the long run.

A properly chilled refrigerator produces water cold enough to satisfy you. And if the temperature is low enough, the ice maker can begin ice production. However, you must throw out the first few batches of ice because they may not be clean enough to consume due to the new water lines and system. Afterward, the refrigerator should be cold enough to make ice faster.

KitchenAid Refrigerator Beeping and Not Cooling – What to Do

If your KitchenAid refrigerator is beeping but not cooling, the fault is likely the main control board.

But first, check the start relay or start capacitor. For the start relay, which is fixed to the compressor, remove it and shake it. If you hear a rattling sound, no matter how small, the relay is bad. Replace it.

For the capacitor, also fixed to the compressor, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If there is no continuity, the capacitor is bad and needs to be changed.

Also, check the refrigerator door to be sure it is properly shut. If the door is open, the door-ajar alarm will go off. And the temperature within the refrigerator will rise because of the loss of cold air and the entrance of warm air.

Furthermore, check the temperature inside the unit. If it rises, the temperature will go off and keep beeping until it drops again. Ensure you correctly set the temperature so that it can drop and stop the beeping.

However, if none of the above applies, then the problem could be from the main control board itself. You will find the control board at the back of the refrigerator, near the bottom, where you have the condenser fan and compressor. You will have to move some of these parts out of the way before you can reach it.

Contact the KitchenAid Service Center or call a qualified technician to accurately diagnose the problem. And if it is the control board, change it for you, especially if you are not good with soldering.

KitchenAid Refrigerator Not Cooling at All – Quick Fix

When you find that your KitchenAid refrigerator is not cooling, take a look at the following components and fix them:

1. Condenser Fan Motor

Check the blades of the fan for any obstruction keeping it from spinning freely. If there is none, spin the blades manually to see if they turn without a hitch. If they don’t turn freely, then the motor is bad and should be replaced.

But if the blades turn freely, test the motor with a multimeter to check for continuity. No continuity means the motor is bad and needs to be changed.

The condenser fan pulls air through the condenser coils and sends it over to the compressor. Without it, the compressor will overheat, and the coils will not be cool enough to cool the refrigerant.

2. Evaporator Fan Motor

Turn the blades of the evaporator fan with your hand to see if they turn freely. If they don’t turn freely, the motor is bad. Listen to the motor for any unusual noise. That will alert you to the fact that the motor is bad. But if the motor is not running at all, test it for continuity to be sure it is totally damaged. If you find no continuity, change the motor.

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The evaporator fan sends air over the cooling or evaporator coils and ensures the air circulates in the refrigerator. Without it, the refrigerator will not get cold at all.

3. Condenser Coils

Dirty condenser coils mean the refrigerant will carry the heat in it into the refrigerator, causing it to grow warm. Check the coils behind the refrigerator, at the bottom, to see if they are dirty. Vacuum them thoroughly and do this at least once every year.

4. Thermistor

Test the thermistor for continuity with a multimeter. Its resistance should change together with the temperature of the refrigerator when you do this. If this doesn’t happen and you read no continuity, the thermistor is bad and needs changing.

The thermistor keeps an eye on the temperature of the refrigerator and sends the reading of the temperature to the control board. If it is unable to do this, the control board will not be able to send power to the evaporator fan and the compressor. That means the fan and the compressor will not run when needed.

5. Capacitor

Use a multimeter to test the capacitor for continuity. If there is none, it is defective and needs to be replaced.

The capacitor provides a power boost to the compressor when it is starting. Without it, it is very unlikely the compressor will start. And if the compressor doesn’t start, the refrigerator will not cool.

6. Start Relay

Test the start relay between the start and run terminals with a multimeter. If there is no continuity, it is bad.

The relay, together with the start winding, starts the compressor. Without it, the chances of the compressor running are low. So the refrigerator will not cool.

7. Temperature Control Thermostat

Turn the thermostat from the lowest to the highest setting and listen to hear a click. The click tells you the thermostat is fine. But if you hear none, it is bad and needs changing.

The thermostat sends voltage to the evaporator fan, compressor, and condenser fan where it applies. If it is unable to do this, the refrigerant system will not work. And if this system doesn’t work, the refrigerator will not function properly.

You can also check the compressor, temperature control board, or motherboard if the parts mentioned above work well. However, it is highly unlikely that these 3 are the problem.

In addition to all of the above, check these factors:

Location – Sitting close to a heat source or in a garage will affect its ability to cool quickly and easily.

Air Vents – Blocked air vents in the refrigerator will not let in enough cool air to keep the unit cold. This will make it warm.

Contents – The number of items in the refrigerator will also contribute to how well it cools. If there are too many items or if there is hot food, it will take a longer time to cool than if there aren’t any.

Installation – If the refrigerator was installed recently, it would need some time to cool properly, sometimes 24 to 48 hours. Be sure to close the door well and don’t open it too often.

Mode – Check whether the refrigerator is in demo or showroom mode. All the lights will show, and the display panel will light up, but the refrigerator will not cool.

KitchenAid Refrigerator Won’t Stay Cold

If you find that your refrigerator gets cold when you turn it on but does not stay cold, it means something is compromising its cooling capacity. You may want to check the door gasket to ensure it creates a tight seal. Otherwise, the refrigerator will regularly lose cold air if the gasket is weak or torn.

Test the gasket with a dollar bill; close the refrigerator door on the dollar bill and try pulling it out. If the money comes out, the gasket is weak and must be replaced. But if the gasket is in good working order, check the evaporator coils in the freezer. The coils absorb the heat in the air and releases cold air. The refrigerator should defrost them to prevent freezing. But the refrigerator cannot stay cold if the coils freeze because the ice insulates them and traps the cold air.

Therefore, manually defrost the refrigerator if the evaporator coils are frozen. Turn the appliance off and leave the doors open until the frost or ice melts. Once done, clean the excess water and turn the appliance on again. If it has an automatic defrosting system, testing each component is crucial.

The refrigerator may have a closed system leak, although it is not a common occurrence. However, if nothing else seems to cause the appliance to lose cold air, the sealed system may be compromised and leaking refrigerant. Unfortunately, this issue must be checked by a trained appliance technician who can handle refrigerant. Turn the refrigerator off and create enough ventilation if there is a leak. Then, call for professional assistance.

Note: These steps apply to all models of KitchenAid refrigerators, including the Superba model.

This video explains how to accurately diagnose the cooling problem with a KitchenAid refrigerator…

Check out these other articles on refrigerators not cooling for other brands…

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KitchenAid Refrigerator Not Cooling after Power Outage – What to Do

1. Check the Cooling Function

Check to see if your KitchenAid refrigerator has a cooling function. If it does, check if it is turned on. When there is a power outage, some refrigerators need to have this function turned on manually. Also, check if you turned the refrigerator off during the outage and forgot to turn it back on.

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2. Check the Power Outage Indicator

If the power is not yet back on, the indicator will beep 3 times intermittently to let you know that the temperature is rising within the refrigerator. This will also explain why the unit is not cooling.

Keep from opening the refrigerator too often so that it can retain some coolness until power is restored. When the power is restored, press any button to shut off the alarm and press any button again to remove the Power Outage indicator flashing on the display panel.

3. Check the Circuit Breaker and Power Cord

Take a look at the circuit breaker for the room where the refrigerator is located. If it has tripped off, the refrigerator will not work. Also, look at the refrigerator’s power cord to see if it burned during the outage due to a surge. The wall socket should also be checked to ensure it is still working.

4. Check the Compressor

Be sure the compressor is still running, and the start relay and capacitor are functioning well. Without the compressor, the refrigerator will not work; without the relay, the compressor will not run.

Before trying any of these, you can try turning the refrigerator off and turning it back on. This could reset it and get it cooling again.

KitchenAid Fridge Not Cooling But Freezer Works – Fast Fix

Check the fan behind the freezer section of your refrigerator. Is it running? If it is not, test the windings of the motor with a multimeter. Without any reading, the motor is bad and has to be replaced.

But if it is running yet the fridge is not cooling, then the start relay of the compressor could be faulty.

Detach it and shake it. Listen for a rattle. If you hear it, the relay is bad and needs to be replaced. If not, check the capacitor. Use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If there is none, the capacitor has to be changed.

Also, check the evaporator coils to see if they are frosted over. If they are, you will have to thaw them using the manual method. Turn the unit off and leave it for a few hours. The ice will melt off the coils.

But you will also have to check the components of the defrost system for any defective ones. This will explain why the defrosting system didn’t thaw the ice off the coils.

Additionally, check the air damper. If it is closed or just partially open, change it. Without it opening all the way, the fridge will not get enough cold air, though the freezer will remain cold.

The video below will further explain this process for you…

Brand New KitchenAid Refrigerator Not Cooling

If you have a newer KitchenAid refrigerator that is not cooling, check if it is still in demo or showroom mode. The lights and display panel will come on in these modes. But neither the freezer nor the fridge will cool.

Take the manual of the refrigerator and read how to exit these modes. This is because there is no one way to do this for all models.

However, if this is not the case, you will have to contact the KitchenAid Service Center to file a complaint since it is a brand-new unit.

KitchenAid Refrigerator Water Not Cold – Solved

It is important to note that the water dispensed from the water dispenser is usually chilled but not ice cold. If you get chilled water from the dispenser, the refrigerator works well and cools the water. But if the water is not cold at all, it may be for a few reasons.

Determine if a large amount of water was recently dispensed; if that is the case, it will take some time for the water in the reservoir to chill again. That means giving the refrigerator some time to run and cool the water. It may also be that you do not regularly use the water dispenser, which means that the first few glasses of water will not be cold. It also means the water may be stale and unfit for drinking. So, discard these glasses of water until you get a fresh and chilled one.

Other Possibilities

If none of the above applies, ensure the refrigerator is connected to the cold water supply line, not the hot one. Otherwise, it will take longer for the water to chill. This is especially true if the refrigerator is a new installation. Typically, new installations take longer to cool, sometimes up to 24 hours after installation.

If the refrigerator is new, consider giving it a few more hours to chill the water. Furthermore, check the set temperature for the freezer and refrigerator sections. The freezer should be at 0 degrees Fahrenheit, while the refrigerator should be at 37 degrees Fahrenheit for the best results. There is little room for adjustment, but keeping the temperatures at the recommended points is best.

Another possibility is that the water reservoir at the back of the crisper drawers is frozen. And if frozen, the water moves directly to the dispenser without chilling. You can turn off the refrigerator and allow the reservoir to thaw, but you must do it fast to prevent a burst reservoir. If it bursts when the ice expands, you will need the help of a service technician to fix the damage.

There is also the chance that you have a newer model refrigerator that uses coiled tubes instead of a water reservoir to provide water to the dispenser. The coiled tubes provide an endless flow of water to the dispenser, unlike a reservoir that stores the water first before dispensing.

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However, the water passes through different refrigerator parts, some hot, some cool. The changing temperature affects the water’s temperature, so you may find that the water is not as cold as you might like. But compared to water straight from the tap, it is cold enough. If that is the case with your refrigerator, the appliance works well, and the water may not get colder unless you have a lower temperature.

Consider fixing this issue yourself by keeping the refrigerator as filled as possible. Do not overstock it, but do not leave it empty. A half-filled refrigerator or freezer is better able to retain the cold air and chill the water. The same is true if the refrigerator or freezer is 3/4 filled. Also, dispense a glass or two of water and discard them to get to the cold water in the coils. Lastly, give the refrigerator time to cool the water after dispensing a large amount. Wait about ten to fifteen minutes between dispensing before getting another cup.

KitchenAid Refrigerator Too Cold in Freezer and Fridge

check the air vents to ensure they are not obstructed. Air vent obstruction can build cold air in any of the sections, leading to excessive freezing. If you are unsure, rearrange items around the vents to create space for proper air circulation. Keep the vents as free as possible, and do not overstock the refrigerator or freezer.

The next step is to check the temperature settings. As mentioned, the freezer is set to 0 degrees Fahrenheit and the refrigerator at 37 degrees Fahrenheit. KitchenAid calls them the mid-point settings, best for cooling the appliance. However, if you set them lower, the refrigerator will freeze. This is especially true if the weather is already cold. In other words, increase the temperatures if they are too low, giving 24 hours between each adjustment for the refrigerator to stabilize.

Finally, check the ice maker. If it is on but not connected to the water supply, it is best to turn it off. A constant running ice maker lowers the refrigerator or freezer temperature and encourages excessive freezing. Apart from the temperature getting too cold, the ice maker may prematurely wear out if it tries to make ice without water. Therefore, it is best to turn it off.

My KitchenAid Refrigerator Is Not Getting Cold in the Middle – Quick Fix

Several minor issues cause your refrigerator to cool unevenly. It may be blocked air vents, incorrect temperature settings, a malfunctioning damper, or poor item arrangement. Do the following if you find that the refrigerator is not cooling in the middle, but other parts are cold.

1. Check the Vents

The vents must be free for cold air to flow correctly into the refrigerator and evenly cool it. If there is a partial obstruction, it may explain the cooling issues. Move items around in the section to create a better airflow; that should fix the problem. Also, check to see if there is ice obstructing the vents due to the cold air. Melt the ice to improve airflow into the refrigerator.

2. Check the Food Arrangement

If the vents are not the problem, it may be the poor arrangement of food in the appliance. If you put too many food items into the refrigerator at the same time, the appliance will have cooling issues, especially if the food is at room temperature. Try rearranging the contents of the refrigerator, ensuring you do not block the vents or damper in the process.

3. Check the Temperature

improper temperature settings may affect how evenly the refrigerator cools. Place a thermometer between two frozen food containers and leave it there for about 24 hours. Read the temperature afterward; if it does not correspond with the set temperature, the thermostat may have failed, or the thermistor may be defective. Test each component using a multimeter and replace any defective ones.

4. Check the Damper

The damper is an electrically-controlled component that allows cold air into the refrigerator from the freezer. It opens in a timed manner so that the right amount of cold air can flow into the refrigerator and closes to prevent excessive cold air and eventual freezing.

However, there may be uneven cooling in the refrigerator if the damper malfunctions or the gasket is loose. The same is true if the gasket is weak. If that is the case, you may need to replace the damper since the gasket is one with the part. You can hire an appliance technician for the job for the best results.

KitchenAid Refrigerator Cold at the Bottom But Hot on Top

The refrigerator may have a defrost problem. Test the defrost timer, defrost heater, and defrost thermostat if the refrigerator is cold at the bottom but hot on top. There may also be a restricted airflow issue between the shelves due to airflow obstruction. Try to create a better room for airflow around the section since cold air is heavy and tends to drop to the bottom.

The refrigerant may have a sealed system leak. If other solutions do not fix the problem, check the evaporator coils to see if there is ice on them. Ice accumulated on one side of the coils indicates a leak. So, turn off the refrigerator and contact KitchenAid to report the issue and request service. Alternatively, use the services of an independent technician for further assistance.

KitchenAid Refrigerator Is Cold, But Freezer Is Warm – Fixed

Check the Door seal, start relay, condenser coils, and evaporator fan. One or more of these components may be defective or dirty, causing the freezer to have cooling issues. You may also want to test the condenser fan at the bottom back of the appliance. Additionally, check the evaporator coils for excessive frost accumulation. Check out this article on a KitchenAid freezer not working but the refrigerator does for further assistance.

Bottom Drawer on KitchenAid Refrigerator Too Cold – Solved

You may have to adjust the temperature for the bottom freezer drawer if it is too cold. The weather may already be cold, or the temperature setting may be below the recommended point. Adjust it one or two degrees higher and give it 24 hours to stabilize. Check the freezer drawer again to see if there is any improvement.

The freezer may also be empty, which contributes to excessive freezing. Typically, the freezer should be half or 3/4 filled with items to absorb the cold air without restricting its circulation. However, there will be too much cold air if there is little or nothing in the freezer. Consequently, ice builds, and the freezer becomes too cold. If there is nothing to put in the freezer, add a few bottles of water to absorb the excess cold air and reduce freezing.

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