How To KitchenAid Refrigerators

KitchenAid Refrigerator Not Cooling [How to Fix]

This article explains how to fix a KitchenAid refrigerator that is not cooling. It also explains how to solve other cooling problems with any KitchenAid refrigerator model.

KitchenAid refrigerator not cooling
Photo Credit: Goedeker’s, Flickr.com (under license)

KitchenAid Refrigerator Beeping and Not Cooling – What to Do

If your KitchenAid refrigerator is beeping but is not cooling, the fault is most likely the main control board.

But first, check the start relay or start capacitor. For the start relay, which is fixed to the control board, remove it and shake it. If you hear a rattling sound, no matter how small, the relay is bad. Replace it.

For the capacitor, also fixed to the control board, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If there is no continuity, the capacitor is bad and needs to be changed.

Additionally, check the door of the refrigerator to be sure it is properly shut. If the door is open, the door ajar alarm will go off. And the temperature within the refrigerator will rise because of the loss of cold air and the entrance of warm air.

Furthermore, check the temperature inside the unit. If it has risen, the temperature will go off and keep beeping until the temperature drops again. Ensure the temperature is set to cold so that it can drop and stop the beeping.

However, if none of the above applies, then the problem could be from the main control board itself. You will find the control board at the back of the refrigerator, near the bottom, where you have the condenser fan and compressor. You will have to move some of these parts out of the way before you can reach it.

Call a qualified technician to accurately diagnose the problem. And if it is the control board, change it for you, especially if you are not good with soldering.

KitchenAid Refrigerator Not Cooling at All – Quick Fix

When you find that your KitchenAid refrigerator is not cooling, take a look at the following components and fix them:

Condenser Fan Motor

Check the blades of the fan for any obstruction keeping it from spinning freely. If there is none, spin the blades manually to see if they turn without a hitch. If they don’t turn freely, then the motor is bad and should be replaced.

But if the blades turn freely, test the motor with a multimeter to check for continuity. No continuity means the motor is bad and needs to be changed.

The condenser fan pulls air through the condenser coils and sends it over the compressor. Without it, the compressor will overheat and the coils will not be cool enough to cool the refrigerant.

Evaporator Fan Motor

Turn the blades of the evaporator fan with your hand to see if they turn freely. If they don’t turn freely, the motor is bad. Listen to the motor for any unusual noise. That will alert you to the fact that the motor is bad. But if the motor is not running at all, test it for continuity to be sure it is totally damaged. If you fins no continuity, change the motor.

The evaporator fan sends air over the cooling or evaporator coils and makes sure the air circulates in the refrigerator. Without it, the refrigerator will not get cold at all.

Condenser Coils

Dirty condenser coils mean the refrigerant will carry the heat in it into the refrigerator, causing it to grow warm. Check the coils at the behind the refrigerator, at the bottom to see if they are dirty. Vacuum them thoroughly and do this at least once every year.

Thermistor

Test the thermistor for continuity with a multimeter. Its resistance should change together with the temperature of the refrigerator when you do this. If this doesn’t happen and you read no continuity, the thermistor is bad and needs changing.

The thermistor keeps an eye on the temperature of the refrigerator and sends the reading of the temperature to the control board. If it is unable to do this, the control board will not be able to send power to the evaporator fan and the compressor. That means the fan and the compressor will not run when needed.

Start Capacitor

Use a multimeter to test the capacitor for continuity. If there is none, it is defective and needs to be replaced.

The capacitor provides a power boost to the compressor when it is starting. Without it, it is very unlikely the compressor will start. And if the compressor doesn’t start, the refrigerator will not cool.

Start Relay

Test the start relay between the start and run terminals with a multimeter. If there is no continuity, it is bad.

The relay, together with the start winding, starts the compressor. Without it, the chances of the compressor running are low. So the refrigerator will not cool.

Temperature Control Thermostat

Turn the thermostat from the lowest to the highest setting and listen to hear a click. The click tells you the thermostat is fine. But if you hear none, it is bad and needs changing.

The thermostat sends voltage to the evaporator fan, compressor and condenser fan where it applies. If it is unable to do this, the refrigerant system will not work. And if this system doesn’t work, the refrigerator will not function properly.

The thermostat sends voltage to the evaporator fan, compressor and condenser fan where it applies. If it is unable to do this, the refrigerant system will not work. And if this system doesn’t work, the refrigerator will not function properly.

You can also check the compressor, temperature control board or the motherboard if there is nothing wrong with these parts mentioned above. However, it is highly unlikely that these 3 are the problem.

In addition to all of the above, check these factors:

Location – If it is sitting close to a heat source or in a garage, it will affect its ability to cool quickly and easily.

Air Vents – Blocked air vents in the refrigerator will not let in enough cool air to keep the unit cold. This will make it warm.

Contents – The number of items in the refrigerator will also contribute to how well it cools. If there are too many items or if there is hot food, it will take a longer time to cool than if there isn’t any.

Installation – If the refrigerator was installed recently, it will need some time to cool properly, sometimes 24 to 48 hours. Be sure to close the door well and don’t open it too often.

Mode – Check to see if the refrigerator is in demo mode or showroom mode. All the lights will show and the display panel will light up but the refrigerator will not cool.

Note: These steps apply to all models of KitchenAid refrigerators, including the Superba model.

This video explains how to accurately diagnose the cooling problem with a KitchenAid refrigerator…

Check out these other articles on refrigerators not cooling for other brands…

KitchenAid Refrigerator Not Cooling after Power Outage – What to Do

Check the Cooling Function

Check to see if your KitchenAid refrigerator has the cooling function. If it does, check if it is turned on. When there is a power outage, some refrigerators need to have this function turned on manually. Also, check if you turned the refrigerator off during the outage and forgot to turn it back on.

Check the Power Outage Indicator

If the power is not yet back on, the indicator will beep 3 times intermittently to let you know that the temperature is rising within the refrigerator. This will also explain why the unit is not cooling.

Keep from opening the refrigerator too often so that it can retain some coolness until power is restored. When the power is restored, press any button to shut off the alarm and press any button again to remove the Power Outage indicator flashing on the display panel.

Check the Circuit Breaker and Power Cord

Take a look at the circuit breaker for the room where the refrigerator is located. If it has tripped off, the refrigerator will not work. Also, take a look at the power cord of the refrigerator to see if it burned during the outage due to a surge. The wall socket should be checked, too to be sure it is still working.

Check the Compressor

Be sure the compressor is still running and the start relay and capacitor are functioning well. Without the compressor, the refrigerator will not work and without the relay, the compressor will not run.

Before trying any of these, though, you can try turning the refrigerator off and turning it back on. This could reset it and get it cooling again.

KitchenAid Fridge Not Cooling But Freezer Works – Fast Fix

Check the fan behind the freezer section of your refrigerator. Is it running? If it is not, test the windings of the motor with a multimeter. Without any reading, the motor is bad and has to be replaced.

But if it is running yet the fridge is not cooling, then the start relay of the compressor could be faulty.

Detach it and shake it. Listen for a rattle. If you hear it, the relay is bad and needs to be replaced. If not, check the capacitor. Use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If there is none, the capacitor has to be changed.

Also, check the evaporator coils to see if they are frosted over. If they are, you will have to thaw them using the manual method. Turn the unit off and leave it for a few hours. The ice will melt off the coils.

But you will also have to check the components of the defrost system for any defective one. This will explain why the defrost system didn’t thaw the ice off the coils.

Additionally, check the air damper. If it is closed or just partially open, change it. Without it opening all the way, the fridge will not get enough cold air, though the freezer will remain cold.

This video below will further explain this process for you…

Brand New KitchenAid Refrigerator Not Cooling

If you have a brand new KitchenAid refrigerator that is not cooling, check if it is still in demo mode or showroom mode. The lights and display panel will come on in these modes. But neither the freezer nor the fridge will cool.

Take the manual of the refrigerator and read how to exit these modes. This is because there is no one way to do this for all models.

However, if this is not the case, you will have to contact the service center of KitchenAid to file a complaint since it is a brand new unit.