Little else is as frustrating as a Maytag refrigerator turning off, or any other refrigerator. This article discusses this problem and how to fix it.
Table of Contents
How to Turn Off the Ice Maker in a Maytag Refrigerator
The ice maker in a Maytag refrigerator typically turns off automatically. Once the ice-making cycle is over, the machine shuts off by moving the wire arm up. However, if you need to turn the ice maker off manually, which may be necessary for a number of reasons, locate the arm by the side of the machine and lift it up. The ice maker stops making ice at this point.
If you disconnect the ice maker from the water supply, you need to turn the machine off. Otherwise, the refrigerator becomes too cold and freezes everything in it. Also, everything in the crisper also freezes. The ice maker continues to the refrigerator’s internal temperature dropping if it is not running without making ice. Another reason for turning it off is if it is making a loud noise, like a buzz, even though it should be making ice.
Maytag Refrigerator Turned Off – Solved
If your Maytag refrigerator is turned off, you may want to check whether or not it is receiving electric power. Start with the power cord; unplug it and plug it in again, this time making sure it is fully in the socket. Check to see if the refrigerator is turned on and if not, take a look at the circuit breaker outside the house.
A tripped breaker cannot supply power, so turn it on if tripped. Ensure the wall outlet is delivering enough voltage to power the refrigerator. A recent power outage explains the power issues, so consider hiring a trained appliance technician to check the electrical connections. Then, they can replace faulty parts or fix other ones.
Try resetting the refrigerator; turn it off by unplugging the unit or powering down the circuit breaker. After about ten minutes, turn the refrigerator back on and ensure it is cooling. Then, check to see if the control panel is working and the unit is cooling. If the reset does not work, check to see if the refrigerator is in demo or Sabbath mode.
If the refrigerator is in demo mode, it means you may have accidentally put it in the mode. But if it is a new installation, you may have never removed it from the showroom mode. Check the user manual for the refrigerator and follow the instructions to exit the demo mode. For the Sabbath mode, also check the user manual for steps to remove the unit from the mode.
If none of the above fixes the refrigerator and it remains off, it needs to be serviced. Contact the Maytag Service Center to report the issue and request service. Alternatively, hire a qualified appliance technician for further assistance.
How to Turn Off Water on a Maytag Refrigerator
To turn off the water supply to a Maytag refrigerator, locate the main shut-off valve. It is usually on the wall behind the refrigerator or under the sink. Turn the valve clockwise until it locks tightly. Some show you when it is On or Off, so if you have that type, turn the valve to the Off position.
The water from the main supply in the house to the refrigerator stops flowing the reason is that the valve cuts the flow until the time you need it again. Then, turn the valve to the On position or go counterclockwise to unlock it. If the valve is not working, hire a plumber to check for faults and fix them.
Maytag Refrigerator Turning Off and On – How to Fix
It is crucial to know that your fridge runs in cycles. While it is on every day, all day, the compressor and fan motors only turn on at certain times and turn off when the fridge is cold enough. Therefore, it is not odd to see the fridge turn on and off, and it is not a fault. When you should worry is if the unit turns on and off within short intervals.
If you find that your Maytag fridge is turning off and on, check the following and fix the faulty ones:
1. Power Supply
If the power supply is fluctuating or is not enough, the fridge will turn on and off. While there are other more likely causes of this problem, it is crucial that you ensure the power is constant and adequate to power the fridge. You may need an electrician or technician to figure out whether or not there is an electricity supply issue.
Check the circuit breaker; it may have tripped or one or more fuses are no longer working. Turn on the breaker if it is off and check the fridge’s functionality. If it still turns off and on, you may need to replace some fuses. Hire a technician to check the fuses and help with the replacement because it involves electricity.
2. Temperature Control Thermostat
You can turn the thermostat to the highest temperature point and wait for a click. If there is no click, run a continuity test on the thermostat using a multimeter. If you find no continuity, replace the thermostat.
The thermostat regulates the fridge’s internal temperature by turning the cooling system on and off. If it has bad contacts or simply stops working, the compressor and fan motors will turn on and off without control, affecting the fridge. If that is the case and you need to replace the thermostat, do the following:
Disconnect the refrigerator from electric power by unplugging it from the wall outlet or turning the circuit breaker off. Clear the area around the temperature control to access it. Next, pull down on the housing for the control to remove it, and locate the temperate control on the dial. Disconnect the wire harness and remove the wires.
Now, loosen the screws holding the temperature control to its housing and gently slide the component out. Put a new temperature control in its place and fasten it with the screws. Put the dial face back in place and reconnect the wire harness with other wires. Next, reinsert the housing for the temperature control in the fridge; ensure it snaps and locks in place. Rearrange the contents of the fridge and reconnect it to electric power. The control should begin working.
3. Condenser Coils
If the condenser coils, usually located at the bottom back or under the unit, are significantly dirty, the fridge will overheat and shut down. After a short while, it will turn on again but the coils will quickly get hot and shut off the fridge. Get a vacuum cleaner with a brush attachment or a condenser coil cleaning brush and wipe the dirt off the coils. They are easy to clean and should be cleaned every six months.
Also, clean the area around the coils, and do the same for the condenser and compressor. These are vital parts of the cooling system and if they overheat, the fridge stops functioning optimally. Ensure no debris is stuck to the fan blade and it is sitting securely on the motor shaft. Without the fan, the coils and compressor overheat and cause further fridge problems.
4. Defrost Timer
The timer can cause the fridge to turn off and on if it is faulty. It controls the defrost cycle by ensuring the heater turns on after the thermostat closes its contacts. As mentioned before, the fridge should not run all the time; the defrost system turns it off from time to time for the defrost cycle. So if it is running erratically, the timer may be faulty.
You may need professional help to check and replace the defrost timer if it is defective. Some timers are complex and you may not be able to check them yourself. But if the fridge timer is not the complex type, try replacing it yourself to save costs:
Disconnect the fridge from electric power and locate the timer. You may want to check the user manual for the timer’s location, but you may find it behind the bottom grille at the front of the fridge, on the control panel, or at the back of the fridge.
Pull the timer out and remove the wire harness; there may be screws securing it in place. Next fix the new defrost timer in its place and secure it with the screws. Follow the instructions in the manual to remove and replace the screws on the timer. Ensure the timer faces the correct direction before connecting the wire harness. Finally, fix the timer in its place and restore power to the fridge and test the timer.
5. Main Control Board
The control board handles the functions of the fridge, so if it malfunctions, the fridge may turn on and off. However, you must troubleshoot other parts that are more likely to fail and certify them to be in good working condition before checking the main control board. Signs of arcing and burns on the relays indicate the control board needs a replacement. Try resetting the fridge by unplugging it for about five minutes and plugging it back. If that does not work, replace the control board.
Note: The same steps and repair methods apply if a Maytag refrigerator keeps shutting off.
Check out these other articles…
Maytag Refrigerator Cooling [Problems, Solutions & Guide]
Maytag Refrigerator Defrost [Problems & Solutions]
Maytag Refrigerator Drawer [Problems & Solutions]
Maytag Refrigerator with No Water [Issues & Solutions]
Maytag Refrigerator Filter [Problems & Solutions]
Maytag Refrigerator Relay [Problem Solved]
How to Replace a Maytag Refrigerator Thermostat [Quick Guide]
Maytag Fridge Won’t Turn Off – What to Do
A fridge should not run all the time, so if you find your Maytag fridge running constantly, check the following:
1. Defrost System
The defrost system turns on and off at specific times every day to warm the evaporator coils and prevent freezing. The most likely part to have failed is the defrost timer, so it should be your first stop. After that, check the defrost heater and thermostat.
These parts are controlled by the timer, but they can also individually fail. Read this article on Maytag refrigerator defrost for details on testing each part. Lastly, check the defrost control board because it controls the functions of the defrost system.
2. Condenser Coils
Inspect the condenser coils and clean them if they are significantly dirty. Use a vacuum cleaner or condenser coil cleaning brush to remove the dust and debris on them. Ensure you wipe them and clean the area around them to prevent dirt from sticking to the coils again.
The condenser coils remove heat from the fridge after the refrigerant absorbs heat from the air. That way, the fridge does not overheat, affecting its cooling capacity. However, if dirt covers the coils, it insulates them and prevents the transfer of heat out of the unit. That is why it is crucial to clean the coils every six to twelve months.
3. Door Gasket
The gasket is the thin strip of rubber running around the edges of the fridge’s door. It keeps the door sealed to trap the cold air inside and keep the warm air out. Over time, the gasket wears out and cannot seal the door anymore. If that is the case, replace the gasket with the correct replacement. Follow the instruction in this guide to remove and replace the gasket.
Sometimes, the gasket may be dirty or loose. If dirty, use warm water and a little dish soap to clean the gasket. Ensure you reach the crevices; you may have to use an old toothbrush to achieve it. However, if it is loose, you can simply fix it with a small screwdriver to push the loose areas back into place.
4. Evaporator Fan
The fan is in the freezer section, behind the panel at the rear back inside it. Remove the contents of the freezer, including the shelves and racks, and unthread the screws holding the panel secured. Carefully lower the panel because the fan is attached to it.
Turn the fan blade and if it is stiff, the motor may be defective. A little penetrating oil may fix the stiff blade but if it continues, test the motor’s continuity. Replace the motor if it has no continuity. Ensure you purchase the correct replacement part using the fridge’s model number.
The fan blows cold air from the freezer into the fridge. Without the fan, the cool air from the evaporator coils remains trapped in the freezer and may lead to the coils freezing. So, if the fan becomes defective, there will be no cold air in the fridge and the compressor will keep running in a bid to provide cold air.
5. Condenser Fan
The fan ensures the condenser coils and compressor do not overheat. If the fan becomes faulty, the coils and compressor may overheat and affect the fridge’s functionality. The fridge keeps running as it tries to maintain a cool temperature against the heat from the coils.
You will find the condenser fan beside the condenser coils; check the blade and motor. Clean them because debris can increase the heat and cause damage. Ensure the fan is fixed to the shaft and turn the blade. If it turns well, the fan is in good working condition. But if not, the motor may have worn bearings. Get a multimeter and test the motor for continuity. If it shows no continuity, replace the motor.
6. Evaporator Coils
The evaporator coils get cold enough to release cold air into the refrigerator. At specific times during the day, the defrost system turns on to warm the coils and prevent freezing. But if they become too cold, they freeze. One of the primary reasons it happens is a faulty defrost system. Another is a weak door gasket.
Before checking these parts, unplug the fridge from the wall outlet and open the freezer door. Allow the coils to thaw naturally; clean the excess water after the coils are no longer frozen. After that, check the door gasket; replace it if it is worn out. If dirty, clean it, and if loose, tighten it. Otherwise, troubleshoot the defrost system and fix faulty parts.
Recap
It is not normal to find a Maytag refrigerator turning off on its own. One or more of the components may be faulty, so check the power supply, thermostat, condenser coils, and defrost timer, among other things.
Other problems may crop up with the refrigerator. Therefore, it is crucial to check other components and run regular maintenance checks on the unit. That way, you catch errors and faults quickly before they damage the refrigerator. Contact the Maytag Center for service or hire a professional appliance technician for further assistance.
Get Instant Help — Ask An Experienced Verified Appliance Technician
Need expert help? Click here to use the chat box on this page to speak with a verified appliance technician right away. No need for expensive in-home service calls. No appointments. No waiting.