U-line Refrigerator Error [How to Fix]

This article outlines U-line refrigerator error codes you will commonly find. So read to know what they mean and what to do about them.

U-line refrigerator error

U-line Refrigerator Error Codes – Quick Fix

Here are the error codes in a U-line refrigerator and how to fix them:

1. E1, ER

When you see this error code, you know that thermistor 1 is open. This means that there is a failure with the thermistor. So it will not be able to accurately read the temperature using its resistance.

Test the resistance of the thermistor with a multimeter or ohmmeter. You should get the accurate resistance value from the refrigerator’s tech sheet or search the user manual for instructions. If the thermistor does not have the correct resistance value, it means the component is not functioning. So, replace it with a new one.

2. E2

This error code signifies that thermistor 1 is shorted. If the thermistor is shorted, it means it has completely failed and may pose a hazard if you do not replace it. So, use the refrigerator’s model number to find and install a suitable replacement part. Alternatively, have an appliance technician do the job.

3. E3

You see this error code when the bottom drawer or the refrigerator’s main door is open for up to 20 minutes or more. It is possible you or someone else did not close the door after the last use. It is also possible that the door does not shut well because of a weak or dirty door gasket.

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An audible alarm accompanies this error code; the alarm is the door open alarm to let you know you need to shut it. Check to see if anything is keeping the door from closing tightly. Rearrange items inside the refrigerator to allow the door to shut tightly.

And check the door seal to be sure it is still sealing properly. If the main door or freezer drawer closes well, this error code will automatically reset itself.

4. E4

The E4 error code tells you that the compressor did not have a break between the start of one cycle and the start of another. That means it ran 100 percent. This could be as a result of dirty condenser coils, faulty start relay, or bad condenser fan.

You can quickly inspect the coils; if they are dirty, use a vacuum cleaner to remove the dirt. Ensure you repeat the process every six months to keep the appliance in top shape. If the problem persists after cleaning the coils, remove the relay from the compressor’s side and shake it.

Shaking the relay is one way to test it; if it rattles, it is broken and needs a replacement. However, not every type of relay works this way. So, if it does not rattle, it does not mean the relay is still working. Use a multimeter to run a continuity test between the start and run terminals. Replace the relay if you find no continuity.

But if all of the above checks out, the condenser fan may be defective. And if the fan is defective, the compressor may overheat, especially if the coils are dirty or the refrigerator constantly runs. Turn the fan blade by hand; if stiff, it may be that the shaft needs oiling or the bearings are worn.

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Use penetrating oil on the shaft and allow it to absorb for a few minutes. Then, turn the fan blade again; if it remains stiff, the problem is with the bearings. That means you need to replace the motor. However, if everything seems to work well, test the motor’s continuity using a multimeter and replace it if there is no continuity.

5. E5, E6

This error code indicates that thermistor 1 is not in range. So, the cool temperature of the refrigerator cannot be maintained because it is high.

Clean the condenser coils and clean it regularly, at least every 3 months. This will help maintain the cool temperature of the refrigerator. This is a good reason why the temperature is affected.

Additionally, call a qualified technician to take a look at the thermistor which is out of range. That is if you cannot find it yourself and fix it.

6. E7

This error code means that thermistor 2 is shorted or is open. The thermistor needs to be replaced. If you can replace it yourself, do but if not, have a refrigerator technician replace it for you.

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7. E8

Thermistor 3 is shorted or open if you see this error code displayed on the panel. This means that the thermistor needs to be replaced. Have a refrigerator technician replace it or do it yourself if you can.

8. E9

When you see this error code, it means that thermistor 4 is open or shorted. In other words, the thermistor is no longer effective. It is important to replace the defective thermistor.

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9. E10

This error code indicates that the top drawer of the refrigerator has been open for more than 20 minutes. Be sure to close the drawer tightly.

Additionally, check to be sure that nothing is keeping it from closing fully and rearrange the contents of the drawer to make it easier to close. Once the drawer closes well, the error code resets itself.

This error code applies only to U-line refrigerator with drawers and the code is accompanied by an audible alarm.

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10. E11, EE

There is an error with the memory of the refrigerator when you see this error code displayed. Contact a qualified refrigerator technician or a U-line service agent for assistance in fixing this problem.

11. P1

This error code means that the circuit of the pump is open. This has to do with the ice maker so applies to U-line refrigerator models with ice makers. You can request the service of a qualified refrigerator engineer from U-line or any other professional refrigerator technician to fix this problem.


Switch the refrigerator off before touching any part of it for diagnostics or repairs. This is an important first step in order to keep you and the refrigerator safe.

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